Gold Pans information and questions
- Thread starter Rabert
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Another vote here for the Garrett Super Sluice.
I used a few other pans and did huge amounts of panning before investing in the Garrett Deluxe Gold Panning Kit which included the Super Sluice and I'd never ever go back. If I'm doing lots of testing I tend to use the mid-sized Garrett pan as it holds a bit less material, it saves the arms a bit but, if I'm doing the odd test pan here or there or cleaning up highbanker cons the Super Sluice is unbeatable!
I would think I'm pretty handy with any gold pan in my hands but since changing to the Super Sluice I've found it makes it quicker and easier and for final clean ups separating black sand from the gold, the huge bottom is essential for the particular method I use.
I used a few other pans and did huge amounts of panning before investing in the Garrett Deluxe Gold Panning Kit which included the Super Sluice and I'd never ever go back. If I'm doing lots of testing I tend to use the mid-sized Garrett pan as it holds a bit less material, it saves the arms a bit but, if I'm doing the odd test pan here or there or cleaning up highbanker cons the Super Sluice is unbeatable!
I would think I'm pretty handy with any gold pan in my hands but since changing to the Super Sluice I've found it makes it quicker and easier and for final clean ups separating black sand from the gold, the huge bottom is essential for the particular method I use.
Well im off to a good start , only found this forum today and last night I ordered the "Garret deluxe pan kit " simply because I liked the riffles and the fact it had 3 sizes of pan and the dvd , book ect.
Makes my purchase seem better when you blokes are rating it as one of the top three pans.
Also bought a second hand book " GOLD PROSPECTING, an Australian handbook by Doug and Derrick Stone" Has anyone read this ? , is it an educational tool or just a good yarn ?
Makes my purchase seem better when you blokes are rating it as one of the top three pans.
Also bought a second hand book " GOLD PROSPECTING, an Australian handbook by Doug and Derrick Stone" Has anyone read this ? , is it an educational tool or just a good yarn ?
Explorer385
Terry Rushton
I like Doug Stone's books. Very informative and easy to read.
It's a good start, but read a variety of sources, you will find some gems of information often repeated and sometimes when you follow a particular path, you will find that there are some absolute pearls of wisdom that some authors take for granted (probably because they are so experienced) but some others will put in their books which just grab you as a natural progression.
For example: many will tell you that you need to separate the black sand from the gold in your pan and leave it at that.
Then someone else will explain how the larger flat surface in some pans is particularly useful and why it is so much more effective in the separation proces and how to use it to advantage.
You will enjoy the Garrett DVD and the explanations.
Also remember, You Tube is your friend.
Terry
It's a good start, but read a variety of sources, you will find some gems of information often repeated and sometimes when you follow a particular path, you will find that there are some absolute pearls of wisdom that some authors take for granted (probably because they are so experienced) but some others will put in their books which just grab you as a natural progression.
For example: many will tell you that you need to separate the black sand from the gold in your pan and leave it at that.
Then someone else will explain how the larger flat surface in some pans is particularly useful and why it is so much more effective in the separation proces and how to use it to advantage.
You will enjoy the Garrett DVD and the explanations.
Also remember, You Tube is your friend.
Terry
aussieroger
Roger
Ok I'm going to buy a pan,
Now my question is,do I buy a plastic one or a steel one, big or small?
Remembering I've not had to much experience using one,
I'm guessing you'll might say buyers preference,
I suppose what I'm asking is,why do you use the type of pans you do,
Look forward to hearing your responses
Regards Roger
Now my question is,do I buy a plastic one or a steel one, big or small?
Remembering I've not had to much experience using one,
I'm guessing you'll might say buyers preference,
I suppose what I'm asking is,why do you use the type of pans you do,
Look forward to hearing your responses
Regards Roger
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=12550
The above link might answer some of your questions.
I dont pan very often so cant really add an informed opinion.
The above link might answer some of your questions.
I dont pan very often so cant really add an informed opinion.
G
Guest
What I look for in a pan.
I use two types of pan the Garret Super Sluice for finishing off and a cheap black plastic pan for general sampling. Before each trip I wash and clean all my equipment including the pans with biodegradable soap to remove any oils.
1, The Tin dish. This pan is made of tin and will hold its blue it is light and very easy to use.
2, The mild Steal pan. Very much like the tin dish, but the mild steal pan will not hold its blue and weighs a bit more than the tin dish but is easy to use.
3. The Fibreglass range of pans are very good. But there is a problem with fibreglass pans. That is they will chip easily if big rocks are dropped into them. And if you accidentally drop them it will more than likely break or chip. The weight is another factor most are heavy.
4, The Plastic range of pans on the market today is very good. These pans are light weight low maintenance and very easy to use. But they must be seasoned before using them in earnest. To season a plastic pan you can rub them over with a bit of very fin wet and dry sandpaper or use them for a day out in the field as a sampling pan. I find the sand paper trick is the way to go. As with the Fibreglass and Plastic pans you must give them a wash out with biodegradable dishwashing liquid to remove any oils or grease which may be in the pan. Heat will also effect a plastic pan and care must be taken with the pan.
5, The leading range of pans on the market today is the Garret range. They are the most used in the field today by prospectors, and the Garret Super Sluice the most popular out of that range.
This PDF book is about gold pans it's good. cheers
http://www.mine.mn/WPJ6_1_gold_pan.pdf
I use two types of pan the Garret Super Sluice for finishing off and a cheap black plastic pan for general sampling. Before each trip I wash and clean all my equipment including the pans with biodegradable soap to remove any oils.
1, The Tin dish. This pan is made of tin and will hold its blue it is light and very easy to use.
2, The mild Steal pan. Very much like the tin dish, but the mild steal pan will not hold its blue and weighs a bit more than the tin dish but is easy to use.
3. The Fibreglass range of pans are very good. But there is a problem with fibreglass pans. That is they will chip easily if big rocks are dropped into them. And if you accidentally drop them it will more than likely break or chip. The weight is another factor most are heavy.
4, The Plastic range of pans on the market today is very good. These pans are light weight low maintenance and very easy to use. But they must be seasoned before using them in earnest. To season a plastic pan you can rub them over with a bit of very fin wet and dry sandpaper or use them for a day out in the field as a sampling pan. I find the sand paper trick is the way to go. As with the Fibreglass and Plastic pans you must give them a wash out with biodegradable dishwashing liquid to remove any oils or grease which may be in the pan. Heat will also effect a plastic pan and care must be taken with the pan.
5, The leading range of pans on the market today is the Garret range. They are the most used in the field today by prospectors, and the Garret Super Sluice the most popular out of that range.
This PDF book is about gold pans it's good. cheers
http://www.mine.mn/WPJ6_1_gold_pan.pdf
Hi roger. I highly reccomend a deep riffle pan like the blue ones in my vids, even a garret super sluice / gravity trap pan with deep riffles too.
The garrett is a bit harder to use locally for lots of black sand clogs the riffles
Ill be buying another pan soon, I get them from Ballarat, not many people sell the blue one. Ill get you the details when I'm home mate, $18 ea.. I shoukd really buy a few and stock them for people myself
Don't bother with turbo or those cheap black ones with small outwards riffles... you want riffles that dip into the pan, not up.
The garrett is a bit harder to use locally for lots of black sand clogs the riffles
Ill be buying another pan soon, I get them from Ballarat, not many people sell the blue one. Ill get you the details when I'm home mate, $18 ea.. I shoukd really buy a few and stock them for people myself
Don't bother with turbo or those cheap black ones with small outwards riffles... you want riffles that dip into the pan, not up.
aussieroger
Roger
Jembaicumbene thanks mate
informative I appreciate your feed back
givin Me a good understanding I think,
Still have to use one to totally understand
informative I appreciate your feed back
givin Me a good understanding I think,
Still have to use one to totally understand
aussieroger
Roger
LC76
Thank you very much for the link My SDC 2300 Pal
I'll check it out,
Cheers buddy
Thank you very much for the link My SDC 2300 Pal
I'll check it out,
Cheers buddy
aussieroger
Roger
AtomRat
Thank man great info,
Might get a blue riffle one as you suggested
And I'll wait until I see you to suss out what else I'm going to need
Thanks for your feed back brother
Thank man great info,
Might get a blue riffle one as you suggested
And I'll wait until I see you to suss out what else I'm going to need
Thanks for your feed back brother
I would recommend the garret kit of three pans of different sizes and a classifier, snuffer bottle , tweezers ,vials, book and dvd . I think its about $100 its the best way to get started and with the 90 degree riffles its nearly fool proof to catch the gold.
I pack basics until I find a good spot. Many days with a leaf sieve ( from bunnings for water tanks , not the steel mesh..the 1/4" plastic one )
2 pans and a yoghurt container. Sometimes ill take minimal rock breaking tools..but all i need is a pan shovel n sometimes sieve. Only go overboard if you can afford it..but you can prospect with basics if you want.
If I find a good spot, ill plan a day and then take in the sluice and big equipment..but no point taking that until you find where you need to dig for bigger yield. Many many days of walking and digging nothing.
2 pans and a yoghurt container. Sometimes ill take minimal rock breaking tools..but all i need is a pan shovel n sometimes sieve. Only go overboard if you can afford it..but you can prospect with basics if you want.
If I find a good spot, ill plan a day and then take in the sluice and big equipment..but no point taking that until you find where you need to dig for bigger yield. Many many days of walking and digging nothing.
Colmaca
Colin
garret super sluice if there gold there it get it , I have a turbo pan it was ok but small middle area now it the tool I put under the beer maker to catch the drips. small gold Maybe a smaller pan But I chuck that gold on my lawn
aussieroger
Roger
Thanks lads great info,
I knew this was going to happen to many options lol
Obvously theres a tool for every occasion,
Guess I need to get a couple of pans and start panning,
I like the idea of feeding a sluice,
Watching vids on you tube like it a lot
Still need to know were gold possibly is before that,
Don't know but I love it,
I'll get some pans do some more research
And have a crack
Aussiefarmer like the idea of the kit to mate
Bit of a starter and a guide too
Thanks again guys I appreciate your feedback
Cheers
I knew this was going to happen to many options lol
Obvously theres a tool for every occasion,
Guess I need to get a couple of pans and start panning,
I like the idea of feeding a sluice,
Watching vids on you tube like it a lot
Still need to know were gold possibly is before that,
Don't know but I love it,
I'll get some pans do some more research
And have a crack
Aussiefarmer like the idea of the kit to mate
Bit of a starter and a guide too
Thanks again guys I appreciate your feedback
Cheers
aussieroger said:Thanks lads great info,
I knew this was going to happen to many options lol
Obvously theres a tool for every occasion,
Guess I need to get a couple of pans and start panning,
I like the idea of feeding a sluice,
Watching vids on you tube like it a lot
Still need to know were gold possibly is before that,
Don't know but I love it,
I'll get some pans do some more research
And have a crack
Aussiefarmer like the idea of the kit to mate
Bit of a starter and a guide too
Thanks again guys I appreciate your feedback
Cheers
I bought the Garret kit and have loved it , I had my heart set on the pans you see on tv but was told to get the garret and I am glad I did.
The classifier/ sieve will reduce the amount of gravel you have to pan by half ,
The garret super sluice/ large pan will break large quantities down quick although I find it hard to finish with so once I start to see the black heavies pooling together I use the medium pan which is my favorite .
The small pan is just handy to put gold or gems in out of the snuffer bottle to clean up perfect and put away. The dvd is great learned to pan properly by watching it 3 or 4 times and now I can trap gold to small to see . Squashed lead shot is a great learning tool to.
G
Guest
Hi, you will know when you find the right pan, it will feel right when you use it. But there in is the trick not so much in its use but more so in and where you use it. What AtomRat posted is quite right { If I find a good spot, ill plan a day and then take in the sluice and big equipment. But no point taking that until you find where you need to dig for bigger yield. Many days of walking and digging nothing. } I work in the same manner. I can spend up to 12 months testing an area before starting to work that area. I map and record my test areas within the field, after a few trips to the field I note that 9 out of 10 times there will be a Pattern starting to take shape. I have complied a bit of information which may help you in your quest.
DESCRIPTIONS OF ALLUVIAL BOTTOMS,
CLAY BOTTOMS.
Some clay bottoms consist of a darkish red tough clay. This
sort of bottom is often met with where surface gold is got; although
it may change in a few yards distance to a finer texture, bearing the
appearance of greasy soft slate clay. On this sort of bottom,
especially if the color of same bear the resemblance of gamboge, {see note}
good patches of the precious metal may result where that sort of
bottom exists. Most likely farther on either soft or hard slate will
be found; the softer such bottoms are, the deeper the gold will
extend, because it sinks downwards in such cases. Crab holes
must be well picked up, as pockets of rich gold are frequently
deposited therein. Such bottoms are usually met with near the
surface, where the hard slates are not a prominent feature. Pipe
clay is also a grand bottom for containing gold, the color of which
may vary from white to light blue, sometimes it is of a yellowish
cast. Gold sometimes follows the small quartz veins often met
with in such bottoms, and may extend several feet in depth ; much
heavy gold has been found where the aforesaid sort of bottoms
exist, A black clay may also be a bottom in shallow sinking, most
likely near creeks or in gullies only, the wash dirt will contain the
chief portion of gold on such a bottom. Black clay is not an
unusual bottom, and in sinking deeper shafts, sand and gravel will
be met with under this clay. Sometimes black clay is only a false
bottom, and may also carry gold on top of it, the same as some of
the tough red clays. Such clay bottoms are usually near the surface,
except where deeper sinking takes place, in which case they are not
reckoned to be bottoms, either false or otherwise. Should clay of
an impenetrable character be lodged near the real bottom, some
times a little gold is lodged on the top of it, most likely in sand or
gravel.
SLATE BOTTOMS.
Slate is one of the best bottoms for alluvial gold, but when
found to be in flat layers it is not a bottom, and must be gone
through just the same as any other strata, until edge reef is reached.
Most reefs standing edge upwards run north and south ; although
here and there the direction may vary a few points westerly or
easterly. Sometimes an exception to this rule occurs. Slate may
be hard or soft, and is often mixed up with pipe clays. Where gold
is prevalent make sure to examine closely the interstices between
slate slabs joining each other, as gold frequently finds its way along
with greasy clays attached to the sides of such slates. Gold may
be scraped off slabs with a butchers knife. Where bard close slate
exists, the gold is chiefly on the top of the slate ; in which case the
easiest plan is to chip up a few inches of same. Some merely
scrape the reef with a knife, sweeping up carefully such scrapings.
Where light brown and yellowish fine greasy sort of clays and soft
slates are, a deeper deposit of gold takes place. Remember that
only properly defined edge slate reefs constitute, the real bottom.
A ledge or slip of reef shot over, although horizontally placed, is
not a bottom, the wash dirt often being underneath this. As reefs
rise and dip on the surface, so do they likewise underneath the
surface, and at various depths. Frequently parallel with the slate
reefs sandstone may be found, and good gold may be looked for
at the junction. Much gold has often been obtained where quartz
adjoins slate reefs; the quartz alluded to means quartz reefs and
quartz veins.
SANDSTONE.
Where sandstone is the bottom a larger quantity of wash dirt
may be looked for, and the gold does not sink to any great depth,
except the sandstone be very soft. This sort of bottom is often
found in creeks, and may alternate at several yards distance to
slate, or even granite bottoms. In sinking shafts or excavating
paddocks, special attention is called to the fact, that in some parts
where alluvial gold is obtained, sandstone boulders may be
immediately lodged on the top of the wash dirt. In certain parts
where leads of gold exist pipe clay may also have to be gone
through, more especially if no edge reef appears. Some sandstone
boulders are very large, and great care should be taken not to
mistake such for the real bottom.
GRANITE.
Treat granite reefs about the same as the sandstone reefs.
Some very good patches of gold have been obtained where the
granite is of a soft nature, and the wash dirt on such reefs generally
contains the most of the gold, especially if the bottom is hard.
WASH DIRT.
On approaching the bottom of whatever sort, try your depth of
wash dirt and classify it accordingly. In driving over the wash
dirtviz. taking out the headings first-be careful to wash or
scrape all quartz or other large stone contained in the wash dirt, as
gold is often attached to the same when much gravel is found.
Where the cement is lodged on the bottom, pay attention to the
depth of same containing gold. Most likely the chief portion of
the precious metal will be found in the cement adhering to the bottom,
and in the latter, black gold may be looked for in cement,
and care must be taken, as it may easily be mistaken for worthless
ironstone. Neverthless, should the gold be chiefly in the bottom,
it will bear its usual color, or have a reddish tinge. Cement wash
dirt frequently has a soft slate or pipe clay for its bottom, yet hard
slate and sandstone may be covered with cement; under such
circumstances look well after the crevices in the reefs.
Sometimes gold has been found on the top of the headings
where clay preponderates, more especially if reefs rise abruptly in
your drive. Sometimes the gold keeps the level of the said reefs
for a time only. Generally on the top of the higher parts of your
claim, clays of different colors, without any wash dirt, may be
lodged, and frequently the heaviest nuggets have been found under
such circumstances. In some instances clay and sand strata may
descend right to the bottom, in such cases most likely very little
gold will be lodged there, it having been swept farther on in the
deeper channels, gutters are here alluded to.
Miners must not be discouraged by not finding the gold evenly
distributed, as it often skips a few feet or more ; hence one party
may leave a claim, and another miner may drive only a few feet
ahead and get payable gold, where leads are ; patient perseverance
is crowned with success.
From the book
The Gold Diggers Guide
or
PRACTICAL MINING MADE EASY
by
H . V. ROGERS
Second Edition. 1894
http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/244331
Note: Gamboge is a partially transparent deep saffron to mustard yellow pigment.
DESCRIPTIONS OF ALLUVIAL BOTTOMS,
CLAY BOTTOMS.
Some clay bottoms consist of a darkish red tough clay. This
sort of bottom is often met with where surface gold is got; although
it may change in a few yards distance to a finer texture, bearing the
appearance of greasy soft slate clay. On this sort of bottom,
especially if the color of same bear the resemblance of gamboge, {see note}
good patches of the precious metal may result where that sort of
bottom exists. Most likely farther on either soft or hard slate will
be found; the softer such bottoms are, the deeper the gold will
extend, because it sinks downwards in such cases. Crab holes
must be well picked up, as pockets of rich gold are frequently
deposited therein. Such bottoms are usually met with near the
surface, where the hard slates are not a prominent feature. Pipe
clay is also a grand bottom for containing gold, the color of which
may vary from white to light blue, sometimes it is of a yellowish
cast. Gold sometimes follows the small quartz veins often met
with in such bottoms, and may extend several feet in depth ; much
heavy gold has been found where the aforesaid sort of bottoms
exist, A black clay may also be a bottom in shallow sinking, most
likely near creeks or in gullies only, the wash dirt will contain the
chief portion of gold on such a bottom. Black clay is not an
unusual bottom, and in sinking deeper shafts, sand and gravel will
be met with under this clay. Sometimes black clay is only a false
bottom, and may also carry gold on top of it, the same as some of
the tough red clays. Such clay bottoms are usually near the surface,
except where deeper sinking takes place, in which case they are not
reckoned to be bottoms, either false or otherwise. Should clay of
an impenetrable character be lodged near the real bottom, some
times a little gold is lodged on the top of it, most likely in sand or
gravel.
SLATE BOTTOMS.
Slate is one of the best bottoms for alluvial gold, but when
found to be in flat layers it is not a bottom, and must be gone
through just the same as any other strata, until edge reef is reached.
Most reefs standing edge upwards run north and south ; although
here and there the direction may vary a few points westerly or
easterly. Sometimes an exception to this rule occurs. Slate may
be hard or soft, and is often mixed up with pipe clays. Where gold
is prevalent make sure to examine closely the interstices between
slate slabs joining each other, as gold frequently finds its way along
with greasy clays attached to the sides of such slates. Gold may
be scraped off slabs with a butchers knife. Where bard close slate
exists, the gold is chiefly on the top of the slate ; in which case the
easiest plan is to chip up a few inches of same. Some merely
scrape the reef with a knife, sweeping up carefully such scrapings.
Where light brown and yellowish fine greasy sort of clays and soft
slates are, a deeper deposit of gold takes place. Remember that
only properly defined edge slate reefs constitute, the real bottom.
A ledge or slip of reef shot over, although horizontally placed, is
not a bottom, the wash dirt often being underneath this. As reefs
rise and dip on the surface, so do they likewise underneath the
surface, and at various depths. Frequently parallel with the slate
reefs sandstone may be found, and good gold may be looked for
at the junction. Much gold has often been obtained where quartz
adjoins slate reefs; the quartz alluded to means quartz reefs and
quartz veins.
SANDSTONE.
Where sandstone is the bottom a larger quantity of wash dirt
may be looked for, and the gold does not sink to any great depth,
except the sandstone be very soft. This sort of bottom is often
found in creeks, and may alternate at several yards distance to
slate, or even granite bottoms. In sinking shafts or excavating
paddocks, special attention is called to the fact, that in some parts
where alluvial gold is obtained, sandstone boulders may be
immediately lodged on the top of the wash dirt. In certain parts
where leads of gold exist pipe clay may also have to be gone
through, more especially if no edge reef appears. Some sandstone
boulders are very large, and great care should be taken not to
mistake such for the real bottom.
GRANITE.
Treat granite reefs about the same as the sandstone reefs.
Some very good patches of gold have been obtained where the
granite is of a soft nature, and the wash dirt on such reefs generally
contains the most of the gold, especially if the bottom is hard.
WASH DIRT.
On approaching the bottom of whatever sort, try your depth of
wash dirt and classify it accordingly. In driving over the wash
dirtviz. taking out the headings first-be careful to wash or
scrape all quartz or other large stone contained in the wash dirt, as
gold is often attached to the same when much gravel is found.
Where the cement is lodged on the bottom, pay attention to the
depth of same containing gold. Most likely the chief portion of
the precious metal will be found in the cement adhering to the bottom,
and in the latter, black gold may be looked for in cement,
and care must be taken, as it may easily be mistaken for worthless
ironstone. Neverthless, should the gold be chiefly in the bottom,
it will bear its usual color, or have a reddish tinge. Cement wash
dirt frequently has a soft slate or pipe clay for its bottom, yet hard
slate and sandstone may be covered with cement; under such
circumstances look well after the crevices in the reefs.
Sometimes gold has been found on the top of the headings
where clay preponderates, more especially if reefs rise abruptly in
your drive. Sometimes the gold keeps the level of the said reefs
for a time only. Generally on the top of the higher parts of your
claim, clays of different colors, without any wash dirt, may be
lodged, and frequently the heaviest nuggets have been found under
such circumstances. In some instances clay and sand strata may
descend right to the bottom, in such cases most likely very little
gold will be lodged there, it having been swept farther on in the
deeper channels, gutters are here alluded to.
Miners must not be discouraged by not finding the gold evenly
distributed, as it often skips a few feet or more ; hence one party
may leave a claim, and another miner may drive only a few feet
ahead and get payable gold, where leads are ; patient perseverance
is crowned with success.
From the book
The Gold Diggers Guide
or
PRACTICAL MINING MADE EASY
by
H . V. ROGERS
Second Edition. 1894
http://handle.slv.vic.gov.au/10381/244331
Note: Gamboge is a partially transparent deep saffron to mustard yellow pigment.
aussieroger
Roger
Thanks for posting pics of the garret kit Aussiefarmer
Looks to be a good idea
Looks to be a good idea
aussieroger
Roger
Wow Jembaicumbene
There's a lot of information there mate
Thanks for taking the time to post it
Very happy mate I really appreciate it
Got some studying to do
Thanks again
Regard Roger
There's a lot of information there mate
Thanks for taking the time to post it
Very happy mate I really appreciate it
Got some studying to do
Thanks again
Regard Roger
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