davent said:Will idling a hilux for an hour or so put any meaningful charge into a deep cycle lead acid battery.
Just a solinoid duel batt set up. I don't think it will, but need to ask.
Ta.
nodavent said:Will idling a hilux for an hour or so put any meaningful charge into a deep cycle lead acid battery.
Just a solinoid dual batt set up. I don't think it will, but need to ask.
Ta.
Been on the scene for five or more years and they don't cope well in engine bay situDed Driver said:Davent, hope you found a conclusion to your original query. Do note that the alternator on any vehicle puts out very little charge when idling under 1000rpm. Alternators are setup to charge at lower revs on a diesel, but you still need to come up to about 1200rpm to get meaningful charge. NB im not sure if this still is the case with modern diesel 4WDs.
On another note, the (fairly new on the market) Lead Crystal Batteries are an interesting addition the deep cycle family.
Ive been looking at these
https://trailercamperaustralia.com....ad-crystal-battery-6-cnfj-100-deep-cycle.html
Sweeper said:Been on the scene for five or more years and they don't cope well in engine bay situDed Driver said:Davent, hope you found a conclusion to your original query. Do note that the alternator on any vehicle puts out very little charge when idling under 1000rpm. Alternators are setup to charge at lower revs on a diesel, but you still need to come up to about 1200rpm to get meaningful charge. NB im not sure if this still is the case with modern diesel 4WDs.
On another note, the (fairly new on the market) Lead Crystal Batteries are an interesting addition the deep cycle family.
Ive been looking at these
https://trailercamperaustralia.com....ad-crystal-battery-6-cnfj-100-deep-cycle.html
Dubious as to warrant the cost. Claimed 18 year life span so I query why only a 3 year warranty :/
Ridge Runner said:If you want to put power back in the battery you need to run it up above 1100rpm and then the voltage starts to get up around 14 to 14.4 volts, Normally when you start a diesel it takes a few minutes "couple" of minutes for it to open up to putting out full power, You can hear this when you hook up a compressor and start the engine, it seems to run normal and then after a few minutes it speeds up and the compressor seems to run 15-20% faster and it will pump up the tyre a lot quicker. I have tried this with 4 different compressors and they all do the same on an engine that has just been started.
Sweeper said:Ridge Runner said:If you want to put power back in the battery you need to run it up above 1100rpm and then the voltage starts to get up around 14 to 14.4 volts, Normally when you start a diesel it takes a few minutes "couple" of minutes for it to open up to putting out full power, You can hear this when you hook up a compressor and start the engine, it seems to run normal and then after a few minutes it speeds up and the compressor seems to run 15-20% faster and it will pump up the tyre a lot quicker. I have tried this with 4 different compressors and they all do the same on an engine that has just been started.
Be it the more load placed on an Alt the more the torque required to drive it this idea appears flawed? Would humbly suggest rev increase would be due to engine operating temp being reached or more likely voltage reg dropping load of alt as start current is replaced in battery. This is the concept of why late model have smart alt to reduce engine load
Occasional_panner said:Well it clearly varies with vehicles.
Mine (Ranger)at idle was just putting out 26.9A into main batt and 19.3A into auxillary just at idle.
That's over 45A all up. I'd sure as hell call that useful.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699544_main_batt.jpg
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699564_auxillary.jpg
Nup, it can select between AC and DC, I use that on my solar system all the time when setting up new arrays and one self made controller doesn't have internal amp reading built in (yet) so I use this.Ridge Runner said:Occasional_panner said:Well it clearly varies with vehicles.
Mine (Ranger)at idle was just putting out 26.9A into main batt and 19.3A into auxillary just at idle.
That's over 45A all up. I'd sure as hell call that useful.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699544_main_batt.jpg
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/7956/1538699564_auxillary.jpg
I think you might find if that is an AC clamp meter it will give higher reading when it is clamped on to a DC source, I have tried a few times to buy a DC version and they either cost and arm and a leg or I get told they don't exist which I know is not true.
Not saying yours is not a DC model but it's just something to ponder. :Y:
Occasional_panner said:Nup, it can select between AC and DC, I use that on my solar system all the time when setting up new arrays and one self made controller doesn't have internal amp reading built in (yet) so I use this.
It's been verified by other shunt meters.
Sorry to disappoint you but those readings are very accurate.
That meter wasn't cheap but not too pricey $80 from memory from super cheap auto here in Aus, they don't sell them anymore but you can get the same thing from Ali exp
I know a few fellas on an electronics site that regularly use them too, they are very accurate and a ripper price.
my idc gives 14.4v @25amp at car idleOccasional_panner said:Just had another look at the vehicle 8.(
I should not have added the two readings as the auxillary feeds from the main battery, not direct from alternator, so the max it was making is in fact 26.9A @ idle, which is still very handy.
Occasional_panner said:Just had another look at the vehicle 8.(
I should not have added the two readings as the auxillary feeds from the main battery, not direct from alternator, so the max it was making is in fact 26.9A @ idle, which is still very handy.
Enter your email address to join: