condor22 said:Hard Luck
Best of luck with your buy, I hope it works out for you in the long run. As you said, time will tell.
Thanks for the update.
That's good your engineer recalibrated the out put to 13.1v because that is what they should be charged at @32*c and the colder the Ambient temp the Higher the float charge should be, 13.85v is the maximum for temps between 16*-21*c with an optimal voltage of 13.55v,condor22 said:I'm loath to discuss Lithium, as I'm still learning, lol. However, if anyone is interested, I'll note some of what I've found out. As I may have mentioned, there is a friend of mine that runs a business called Nimbus Engineering, which specialises in motorhome and caravan off grid power. He supplied my caravan panels and Victron controller. As an aside, he reprograms the float voltage of the Victron in float mode form 13.8 V down to 13.1. The reason, an AGM continues to "gas" off at anything over 13.2 V so why stress it.
On to Lithium, as an electronics engineer/designer, he receives a lot of technical data from all over the world. The one he mentioned in particular was that an Australian company received funding (over $9 mil) to test dozens of Lithium deep cycle batteries from all over the world. The tests were broken into 8 phases and conducted over 18 months and resulted in a 300+ page report, he has a copy of. I've only briefly discussed this with him and comments made (by him) include; "At the end of phase one, 15 batteries failed" (tests got progressively heavier duty, including loads, charging and environmental). "At the end of each test phase, more and more batteries failed".
The final comment; "At the end of phase 8, only 2 batteries had survived and passed all phases, a Tesla and a Pulmantech."
Which leads me to mention the latter. He's not a huge fan of Lithium, but is now a supplier of the Pullmantech. I've seen one and although he's sold a few, still to do some testing of his own. It has an all metal case, roughly 11kg, has an internal BMS, an on/off switch on top of the battery (push button), a gauge showing battery capacity and is a 100 AH. I believe it is a bit under $1,000.
More.....
Ridge Runner said:The Low power draw is really important when it comes to using Solar to recharge the batteries because In the winter time here it does not get light until after 07:30 in the morning and it is Dark by 16:30 in the Afternoon which leaves less than 9 hours of daylight with means I get about 7 hours max of normal light to run a panel,
condor22 said:Ridge Runner said:The Low power draw is really important when it comes to using Solar to recharge the batteries because In the winter time here it does not get light until after 07:30 in the morning and it is Dark by 16:30 in the Afternoon which leaves less than 9 hours of daylight with means I get about 7 hours max of normal light to run a panel,
Which in solar terms is barely 2 sun hours per day.
condor22 said:I
Re connection - I work on this logic - The only thing connected to the vehicle alternator is what the vehicle manufacturer has connected to it. The vehicle battery is the "Ballast" (for want of a better word) for the entire system, so if you add anything i.e. spotties, DC-DC or anything else take it off the start battery. It also cushions the blow, so as to speak.
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