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Shellac can impart a slightly yellow finish on raw timber, I doubt that your box will yellow too much as it looks to have a darker tone and a fairly aged patina. if you are unsure if you like the finish, try it on the underside of the bottom rail as a test piece. Not too much to remove by sanding if it’s not to your liking.
 
Thanks Pa
I didnt want to apply something then find out it didn’t look as good as i thought then have to spend time to remove it again.
I can see what you mean about the slight yellow tone on raw timer thats what threw me off seeing the result on inside unaged wood compared to the aged wood on the outside of the chest..
Im thinking the inside wood will look totally different to the outside wood and thats not something i wanted to do..its like i had put new wood inside and that would look odd and outbof place...thing is the interior woods I assume are as old as the chest itself so I imagine the interior hasnt aged the same due to not being exposed to the same aging factors as the exterior wood hss.
I may have to rethink things and find a way to treat both interior and exterior surfaces so they have a similar outcome..
 
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Applied 2 coats of shalack to these 2 pieces of timber , they are the 2 interior draw runners..
Tell me what do you guys think ?
Yes. Or No
View attachment 6580
Shellac is used by French Polishers, however, they normally would apply multiple coats, anything up to 50 and more to achieve a lustre. If the cabinet is put near a window with lots of sunlight, it will do one of two things fade or yellow. A single pack or better a two pack waterbase finish will remain clear for a long period of time. Cheers
 
Using clear Gillys nourishing wax satin sheen.. View attachment 6597
Looks nice, are you happy with it?
not sure Pa
Its nice just with the wax but I’m thinking I’ll need to keep applying it periodically and that might be a barstard 😉 . Would be nice if i could apply a clear lacquer coat and lock in the current colour .. is that possible do you think ?
 
Setting up the caravan in Venus bay for Christmas with my family. All well except for a seized awning brace knob. Bloody knob is siezed to its inner metal clamp and just spins around. Have a replacement but just can’t get this thing off.
Maybe a few settlers and inspiration will come.7D81F455-2802-41C9-A53F-A84E8DFE259A.jpeg
 
Using clear Gillys nourishing wax satin sheen.. View attachment 6597

not sure Pa
Its nice just with the wax but I’m thinking I’ll need to keep applying it periodically and that might be a barstard 😉 . Would be nice if i could apply a clear lacquer coat and lock in the current colour .. is that possible do you think ?
I’ve used Gillys wax before, I like it, if it’s piece that’s going to be handled a lot I’d think about a polyurethane / varnish type finish. If it’s going to be more of a show piece I’d stick with the Gillys. If you go down the varnish path you will probably need to re sand that section, generally varnish/ poly doesn’t like wax. Be aware even a clear varnish/ poly will darken the timber, probably similar to your wax finish anyway.
 
Using clear Gillys nourishing wax satin sheen.. View attachment 6597

not sure Pa
Its nice just with the wax but I’m thinking I’ll need to keep applying it periodically and that might be a barstard 😉 . Would be nice if i could apply a clear lacquer coat and lock in the current colour .. is that possible do you think ?
If you’re using oils and/or waxes, they need to be reapplied quite frequently.

Traditionally, it was always recommended as:
Once a day for a week.
Once a week for a month.
Once a month for a year.
Once a year forever…

Attached is a pic of the stuff I use. Looks great, non toxic and smells nice.
 

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