B5MECH
Laurence Male
All should be good, it still is honda quality even from thailandNailfinder said:
Honda Generator Problems
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When left for lengths of time...the oil drains away from the cylinder wall...which in turn causes lose of compression.....these engines use a splash method to lubricate.....it can take some effort to get them going again when left for long periods without being started. Iv had to go through it a few times now myself with the eu20i. I simply apply a small amount of fuel/oil mix to the spark plug hole, and slowly pull on the starter rope to oil up the cylinder wall.
Always use the more expensive petrol..high octane as it will burn better and you get a much better tank to run time ratio. If leaving for any length of time..try to drain the carby as the additives in the fuels will caramelize and block the jets....PITA.
I hate to disagree narrawa but how can oil below the rings affect compression, and using higher octane fuel is also a myth, use the recommended fuel only, draining the carby is a good idea as you are correct on this point, if storing for a long time i would recommend removing all the fuel
Always use the more expensive petrol..high octane as it will burn better and you get a much better tank to run time ratio. If leaving for any length of time..try to drain the carby as the additives in the fuels will caramelize and block the jets....PITA.
I hate to disagree narrawa but how can oil below the rings affect compression, and using higher octane fuel is also a myth, use the recommended fuel only, draining the carby is a good idea as you are correct on this point, if storing for a long time i would recommend removing all the fuel
With my 20eu I have a pump to drain the tank, then run the engine till it stops..
I put an hour meter on it and do an oil change every 50 hours..
I hope my kids will pull this out of the shed and use it way after I'm gone.
I put an hour meter on it and do an oil change every 50 hours..
I hope my kids will pull this out of the shed and use it way after I'm gone.
the duck said:
Have to agree Duck ................. if you need oil above comp ring to get enough compression to start ..................... she's buggered
Nailfinder are you onto the free camping area @ Clermont ? Saves you a couple of hundred for the week
You may disagree all you like.....but its old school.
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/compression-test-injecting-oil.html
As for hi octane being a myth?....ok...lol
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/compression-test-injecting-oil.html
As for hi octane being a myth?....ok...lol
if its had fuel left in it that may have blocked the main jet as the newer fuels do not last
I thought that was only really true of 2 stroke?old hand said:if its had fuel left in it that may have blocked the main jet as the newer fuels do not last
No a friend had a Briggs water pump used it one season the next year it would not run the main jet was blocked up ,the petrol just does no keep like the old stuff
Narrawa said:
Increasing the octane rating of fuels makes them more resistant to spontaneous combustion and burn slower and longer - high octane fuels are primarily for high compression high performance engines that can suffer pinging (aka pre-ignition) and knocking when running with low octane fuels. Low octane ie 91 RON is actually more readily combustable and perfectly suitable for low comression small engines and that's why it's universally recommended by small engine manufacturers.
onebob
Great info Casper...and is why i prefer to use the higher octane when available.....oh..and the other benefits associated with higher octane fuels. To some, the Honda engine is a high performance engine...treated as tho...and it wont let you down. I used mine every night of the week while prospecting in WA, and i did start out using the lower octane fuel, cause like a lot of other folks thinking...it was cheaper.
Over the last three yrs out in the desert i used mine...its a no brainier the better fuel to use in the end.
The manufacturer will also tell you not to use full synthetic oils in them as well. I use full synth...and a Sendec Hr/maintenance meter, and change oil ever 100hrs.
Than you have the argument of oils...multi-grade vs fixed vs synthetics vs additives like Teflon ect ect.
Its great having the freedom of choice as to how we run/setup our gear. And its also good to know that others heading down the same road can learn from what it is others how learned before hand. Having had many gen sets over the yrs, certain things cause one to pause and dig a little deeper looking for answers....ya just gota luv the internet. :lol:
Over the last three yrs out in the desert i used mine...its a no brainier the better fuel to use in the end.
The manufacturer will also tell you not to use full synthetic oils in them as well. I use full synth...and a Sendec Hr/maintenance meter, and change oil ever 100hrs.
Than you have the argument of oils...multi-grade vs fixed vs synthetics vs additives like Teflon ect ect.
Its great having the freedom of choice as to how we run/setup our gear. And its also good to know that others heading down the same road can learn from what it is others how learned before hand. Having had many gen sets over the yrs, certain things cause one to pause and dig a little deeper looking for answers....ya just gota luv the internet. :lol:
Bogger,
Oil Flow Through the Piston Ring-pack
Engine oil is designed to produce an oil film on the cylinder walls. While the oil control ring on the piston squeegees much of it off, a thin film will still remain. When the engine decelerates, high negative pressures suck oil in the combustion chamber and out the exhaust manifold.
The problem is more pronounced when rings or cylinders are badly worn or damaged, but it can also occur if the cylinders were not honed properly (out-of-round or surface finish defects) when the engine was built (or rebuilt) or if the rings were installed improperly.
Much of the oil that is transported through the piston ring-pack and along the liner usually occurs during the compression stroke. The oil control ring scrapes the oil from the cylinder wall. The scraped oil flows to the ring drain holes/cavities. Oil left behind on the cylinder wall is needed to lubricate the compression rings. Once oil moves past the compression rings, it is difficult for the oil to return to the sump. However, blow-by gases can provide a transport medium to help recycle the oil back to the sump (see Figure 1).
The internet is a wonderful thing is it not.?
Oil Flow Through the Piston Ring-pack
Engine oil is designed to produce an oil film on the cylinder walls. While the oil control ring on the piston squeegees much of it off, a thin film will still remain. When the engine decelerates, high negative pressures suck oil in the combustion chamber and out the exhaust manifold.
The problem is more pronounced when rings or cylinders are badly worn or damaged, but it can also occur if the cylinders were not honed properly (out-of-round or surface finish defects) when the engine was built (or rebuilt) or if the rings were installed improperly.
Much of the oil that is transported through the piston ring-pack and along the liner usually occurs during the compression stroke. The oil control ring scrapes the oil from the cylinder wall. The scraped oil flows to the ring drain holes/cavities. Oil left behind on the cylinder wall is needed to lubricate the compression rings. Once oil moves past the compression rings, it is difficult for the oil to return to the sump. However, blow-by gases can provide a transport medium to help recycle the oil back to the sump (see Figure 1).
The internet is a wonderful thing is it not.?
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Stale fuel is a big problem for small engines that are left for too long. I have seen generators, waterblasters and bikes that would not start after being left for 6 months without use, I always drain the tanks now if they are not in constant use.
Unless the lubricant used to install the pistons has fouled the plugs it won't be cylinder oil related. A new motor without oil cutout protection will fire and run without oil until it seizes. It doesn't rely on compression to fire, just to conserve the energy expended by the fuel to drive the load.
Jon
Jon
This has been a very interesting thread.
All I can add is a Honda 650 purchased back in the 90's has had regular oil changes and the only other expenditure has been replacement sparkplugs.
As has already been mentioned several times when put to bed for the off season, fuel drained, engine run until carbie dry, plug removed and a squirt of oil in plug hole, plug refitted and finally a pull on the starter until both valves are closed.
All I can add is a Honda 650 purchased back in the 90's has had regular oil changes and the only other expenditure has been replacement sparkplugs.
As has already been mentioned several times when put to bed for the off season, fuel drained, engine run until carbie dry, plug removed and a squirt of oil in plug hole, plug refitted and finally a pull on the starter until both valves are closed.
I got caught up in a change of plans for returning to the west last season....and was too busy to carry out the above mentioned things when putting it to sleep for the season....its been well over 12 months since i pulled on the starter rope of my 20i.....its gunna be interesting because from memory....its still got fuel in it...Nightjar said:
:8Might be simpler to just go buy a new one...this ones out of warranty now anyway. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Narrawa said:
That's great if you have a money tree in the back yard.
This brings to mind a discarded 9hp Honda engine we found left behind in the bush. Looked in perfect condition but a pull on the cord, seized solid.
Took it home anyway, removed the plug and squirted a bit of WD40 into the bore and it was free as the breeze. Puzzled that it came free so easily, replaced plug and pulled again it moved then locked solid....................
All that was wrong with it was the wrong plug which had a long shank which contacted the piston at the top of the stroke.
Correct plug fitted, carbie cleaned, topped up with fuel and a couple of pulls had it running. Someone had thrown away a $1000 engine for the sake of a spark plug?
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