AngerManagement said:
Thanks for that. I may wait until it dies. Though I do like to tinker
Advice on a pinpointer
- Thread starter Goldbuzzhashit
- Start date
Help Support Prospecting Australia:
Thanks for that. I may wait until it dies. Though I do like to tinker
ProspectorPete said:
As stated before, I am biased... See the sponsor section.
They all have pro's and con's and some are better than others in one way or another...
The Garrett / ML / Whites TRX are all good but up there on price...
There are a few cheep ones that I can not comment on, as little first hand experience.
The Garrett can be serviced post Warranty, ML in 99.9% of cases NO, Whites TRX can not comment....
The X-pointer new kid on the block see sponsor section.
G
Guest
For all the flag-waving and drum beating, the Garrett PP really is a very ordinary piece of work. And for the price it's actually not worth it really.
The video above is great value. I'm getting Plasti-Dip and will coat mine with that. If it plays up as suggested in the video I'll just put some insulation tape over it. And if the switch plays up use that tape as suggested.
Bloody unbelievable poor design and finish for such a 'touted' product. But quality is something on which the yanks tend to be very soft around the edges.
There was another video on YouTube that showed how to make the switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WEI8PnYCUo
However, the guy doesn't respond so I can't get mine modified the way he has it.
The video above is great value. I'm getting Plasti-Dip and will coat mine with that. If it plays up as suggested in the video I'll just put some insulation tape over it. And if the switch plays up use that tape as suggested.
Bloody unbelievable poor design and finish for such a 'touted' product. But quality is something on which the yanks tend to be very soft around the edges.
There was another video on YouTube that showed how to make the switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WEI8PnYCUo
However, the guy doesn't respond so I can't get mine modified the way he has it.
True true...
Good to help mark tools... Red / Yellow etc in a workshop, but as to lasting... Nope.
I use tip protectors and use my digging tool, rather than the pointer to dig.
I also use a special spray to protect and water proof coils etc...
nuggetino said:
Good to help mark tools... Red / Yellow etc in a workshop, but as to lasting... Nope.
I use tip protectors and use my digging tool, rather than the pointer
to dig.I also use a special spray to protect and water proof coils etc...
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AngerManagement said:True true...
nuggetino said:
Good to help mark tools... Red / Yellow etc in a workshop, but as to lasting... Nope.
I use tip protectors and use my digging tool, rather than the pointer
I also use a special spray to protect and water proof coils etc...
Gave me a chuckle there
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SunriseBoy said:
I agree with you. for the money and state of technology today, we deserve better. Is there a P/p that isn't made in Asia ? while they could be made to a better standard, it is the companies that dictate built quality and cost. The return -exchange policy of some of these companies is cheaper than building a better quality product ? that is an indication of the product quality, and that is also built into the product's price ! there is an allowance for product failure. when you consider I-phones and similar technology, a P/P is child's play. imo. :|
slipped disc said:
YES, but what you/we deserve and what the BIG boys want us to have is not always in alignment
slipped disc said:
NO Same as almost every thing you use today... Lots of wording about MADE IN, but even when the raw product may be only found in x and Y it all ends up where the $$$ dictate the best deal can be done... SHAREHOLDERS are what it is about..
slipped disc said:
YES... Cheep rip offs are just that. Some of the best quality comes from China, but it will cost and subject to the requirements of the company that wants the item
FFP or Fit For Purpose.
slipped disc said:
Not always, much of it is about risk management and the cost of labour. A pointer that has a broken switch is cheaper to replace No Questions Asked. Than to have postage both ways and then 30min to repair and then add in all the paperwork and other background activity.
Thus using statistics and if you make enough units; the landed cost to ML or Garrett is maybe $10 tops... Hence, you have a fail, you get a new one under warranty. After warranty, you PAY
But it also keeps you locked into that brand.In addition, the supplier of the Main purchase, can often toss in a Pin Pointer and that helps to manage PPCD (see my other posts Post Purchase Cognitive Dissonance)
slipped disc said:
A high Quality item can still be FFP as defined by the Manufacturer. and not always the price... As we are a Through Away culture, no longer Repair.
Planned obsolescence or built-in obsolescence in industrial design is a policy of planning or designing a product with an artificially limited useful life, so it will become obsolete, that is, unfashionable or no longer functional after a certain period of time. The rationale behind the strategy is to generate long-term sales volume by reducing the time between repeat purchases (referred to as "shortening the replacement cycle").
The ML Pro pointer for eg has good build quality but is glued together such that repairs are NOT POSSIBLE, even for the smallest problem.
= Planned obsolescence 8)
slipped disc said:
YES, that is the Stats and Planned obsolescence and the Cost of the item to the Supplier...
IMPORTANT: 99.9% of Suppliers never make money on Service and Support where the item Does Not use a consumable.
Detectors and pin pointers do not use any on going consumable that is only supplied by the manufacturer. Batteries can be had any where.
Thus they get one shot at the cherry to bank a few $$$
Buy for $10 sell for $185 and if Quality is Good, then a few returns under warranty will allow a good profit and the SHAREHOLDERS will be happy...
And most if not 99% of users will be happy... That is good business and great returns.
You have Super / Money in a Bank etc. then your a share holder in the big picture, just that you only get a small chunk, while the others gobble...
PS. If you think the I-phone 6, costs Apple more than $25; your mistaken..
But as a small player; I would suggest that it costs me much more to land an X-pointer in Australia, than for ML to land an X-TERRA 505.
Ive purchased a Deteknix Xpointer as I was impressed by a few YouTube videos that I watched. So far so good.
Like the feel, the audio, ability to turn vibro off, and it hasn't falsed on me yet. The holster seems very sturdy and a lanyard is included. Will report more as I get more time behind it.
Like the feel, the audio, ability to turn vibro off, and it hasn't falsed on me yet. The holster seems very sturdy and a lanyard is included. Will report more as I get more time behind it.
I have a Deteknix Pi Xpointer and am happy.
Been using the Whites TRX since its release, tried the earlier Whites models but they have nothing on this unit.
Works well in WA soil, never a falsing problem.
It will interfere when using larger coils (16-18-20") on the PI detectors if carried on the front of your person, small coils have a smaller field and are not a problem unless the Pinpointer enters the field of the coil. (when retrieving your target)
Iv witnessed the effects of both the other two brands and the TRX is mild in comparison.
About the same price as the Pro-find by Minelab, but has better features and far better depth than both the Garret and Minelab units.
Using it pert-near daily now im back in the east coining with the V3i. No ill effects on this detector unless you put in near the coil. No problems with both the GMT or MXT either.
http://www.goldsearchaustralia.com/index.php/our-products/accessories/pin-pointers/bullseyetrx.html
Works well in WA soil, never a falsing problem.
It will interfere when using larger coils (16-18-20") on the PI detectors if carried on the front of your person, small coils have a smaller field and are not a problem unless the Pinpointer enters the field of the coil. (when retrieving your target)
Iv witnessed the effects of both the other two brands and the TRX is mild in comparison.
About the same price as the Pro-find by Minelab, but has better features and far better depth than both the Garret and Minelab units.
Using it pert-near daily now im back in the east coining with the V3i. No ill effects on this detector unless you put in near the coil. No problems with both the GMT or MXT either.
http://www.goldsearchaustralia.com/index.php/our-products/accessories/pin-pointers/bullseyetrx.html
Goldpick
Chris Johnson
I have also found the TRX totally usable in salt water/wet sand. You can GB the pinpointer on start up in the wet sand or water, and little or no falsing occurs, or you can use the rachet feature when already probing for the target, to detune it enough not to respond to the salt and still pick up the target.
I also like the fact that you can wash to whole pinpointer off under running water with no ill effects, especally for cleaning out the speaker holes.
One quirk I did find after using it for a while on AA batteries, is that the TRX sometimes becomes slow to react to targets. At first it will do nothing after initial GB, then eventually it will respond after probing around for a bit, but in an erratic state. I have found this is usually due to the AA's becoming close to exhaustion, being slow to react, reduced depth capability, erratic detection, and you will also note the LED starts to pulse a bit. Being able to run on AA's is great, but they just don't have the longevity that the 9v batteries have, so best off to swap them out more regularly.
So why doesn't low battery alarm pick up the near flat AA's, I don't know, but it is almost as if the low battery alarm is calibrated for use with the 9v, and not the AA batteries??
I also like the fact that you can wash to whole pinpointer off under running water with no ill effects, especally for cleaning out the speaker holes.
One quirk I did find after using it for a while on AA batteries, is that the TRX sometimes becomes slow to react to targets. At first it will do nothing after initial GB, then eventually it will respond after probing around for a bit, but in an erratic state. I have found this is usually due to the AA's becoming close to exhaustion, being slow to react, reduced depth capability, erratic detection, and you will also note the LED starts to pulse a bit. Being able to run on AA's is great, but they just don't have the longevity that the 9v batteries have, so best off to swap them out more regularly.
So why doesn't low battery alarm pick up the near flat AA's, I don't know, but it is almost as if the low battery alarm is calibrated for use with the 9v, and not the AA batteries??
Good info. The best thing I'm liking about the Deteknix is the reaction time - it is very quick. You turn it on and probe, and it hones in on the target right away. If there's no beeps you know it's too deep so you dig some more. Then you hear that slower beep.
The other thing I'm finding is that I can accurately judge depth, which is handy because in delicate parks I only use a screwdriver so don't bother digging the deep ones. Running the Sensitivity on 3 on the Xpointer I know that if it can't pick up the target from the surface it is going to be a bit too deep. Now if it sounds too sweet to resist, well then I may be tempted to have a bit more of a scratch
The other thing I'm finding is that I can accurately judge depth, which is handy because in delicate parks I only use a screwdriver so don't bother digging the deep ones. Running the Sensitivity on 3 on the Xpointer I know that if it can't pick up the target from the surface it is going to be a bit too deep. Now if it sounds too sweet to resist, well then I may be tempted to have a bit more of a scratch
Goldtarget
(AKA OldGT)
Despite the controversy this may cause I'm throwing it out there, which pin pointer has the best depth? I will add I have the MLB, but surely someone has created a video or done a test? I find it a little disappointing at times that I can test drive a car or bike but have to attempt negotiations to try out a prospecting item...
From what I have seen and tried, in terms of raw depth, I'd rate them like this:
1. Whites trx
2. Deteknix Xpointer
3. Minelab Pro-Find
4. Garrett ProPointer
Just remember, depth can work against you
1. Whites trx
2. Deteknix Xpointer
3. Minelab Pro-Find
4. Garrett ProPointer
Just remember, depth can work against you
Nenad is right, depth can work against you, especially with the TRX.
In most cases you'll be digging the unwanted ferrous junk near the target of interest due to the detector your using discing out the junk metal.
If your aware of other metal close by using detectors that allow you to see/hear other targets, in my case the V3i, you can ratchet the pinpointer to roughly match the depth reading of the detector.
I simply do this with the digging tool to roughly 2-3" before retrieval. In a simple dig, there is no need.
The TRX after ratcheting i find has a more reliable depth detection than the detectors its being used with. When you ratchet for around 2" on a coin sized target...2" it is.
If you need to start again, simply push the on off button while holding the pointer in the air away from metal, this will reset the GB and give max depth. Hold it to the ground for a new GB and push the button once.
I got mine when Goldsearch first got them in, and i used it in WA this season. Iv also not yet sent it back for the lost alarm board replacement........id feel naked now not having it while i detect.
I use it daily since being back from WA.
In most cases you'll be digging the unwanted ferrous junk near the target of interest due to the detector your using discing out the junk metal.
If your aware of other metal close by using detectors that allow you to see/hear other targets, in my case the V3i, you can ratchet the pinpointer to roughly match the depth reading of the detector.
I simply do this with the digging tool to roughly 2-3" before retrieval. In a simple dig, there is no need.
The TRX after ratcheting i find has a more reliable depth detection than the detectors its being used with. When you ratchet for around 2" on a coin sized target...2" it is.
If you need to start again, simply push the on off button while holding the pointer in the air away from metal, this will reset the GB and give max depth. Hold it to the ground for a new GB and push the button once.
Im still using the AA batteries that came with my TRX, the alarm sounds regularly and it shuts down often due to the batteries being flat, however, a 9v would not last near as long as AAs in my opinion due to the 9v range not having the Milli-amp hours that can be found in AA batteries.
I got mine when Goldsearch first got them in, and i used it in WA this season. Iv also not yet sent it back for the lost alarm board replacement........id feel naked now not having it while i detect.
I use it daily since being back from WA.
The only time I like good depth is on the beach...
Parks etc, I like to knock the Xpointer to 3 or even 2 and if I can not get a sharp signal OR the signal covers an area of 2" or greater etc than also a good chance it is not a coin or too deep. And if I can get away with less interruption of soil at a park, then I feel much better about detecting there. Still see the results of extremely poor OR lack of skills; in some places after a walk around, to do not even get the MD out of the car. For fear that some one will blame ME.
As I have stated previously; pros and cons for all...
And it depends on where you intend to use... As to the importance of Water Resistance and Environment (night at park) etc as to the functions you want/need
Then there is the issue of support i.e. Warranty and Post Warranty
And last but not least; cost $$$$$$$$
Parks etc, I like to knock the Xpointer to 3 or even 2 and if I can not get a sharp signal OR the signal covers an area of 2" or greater etc than also a good chance it is not a coin or too deep. And if I can get away with less interruption of soil at a park, then I feel much better about detecting there. Still see the results of extremely poor OR lack of skills; in some places after a walk around, to do not even get the MD out of the car. For fear that some one will blame ME.
As I have stated previously; pros and cons for all...
And it depends on where you intend to use... As to the importance of Water Resistance and Environment (night at park) etc as to the functions you want/need
Then there is the issue of support i.e. Warranty and Post Warranty
And last but not least; cost $$$$$$$$
Goldtarget
(AKA OldGT)
Cheers for the replies. In relative terms I understand what you guys are imparting but it would be an advantage. My pinpoint works at a set 60%. I have a heavy reliance on my PP to narrow down the direction and depth of a nominated target especially a masked one. If I could gain an extra 10% depth with accuracy over the current MLB it would be worth the outlay. Reducing the sensitivity is always an option, increasing depth is not. In two places I've hunted out and dug the deep iffy signals I've pulled silver from depths well beyond the PP range, the sooner I determine the target position the less digging and widening I would need, and less need to cram the PP into the depths. The more I hunt with my machine the more its depth astounds me. Averaging a predec at 6 inch is great for averaging but the regularity that they appear deeper would suggest that is just that an average. Smaller silvers in my experience can be closer to 10 with considered removal adding an extra inch. Perhaps the average machine doesn't prompt the user to dig hence why 6 inches is considered a normal level. Again I appreciate the guidance you guys freely give. I never notch or discriminate I hunt all metal with different size coils, at the highest sensitivity that is stable, just maybe bump the threshold up or down depending on what I'm trying to achieve.
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