Wanted reliable 4x4

Hi guys I have just started looking for a 4wd to go prospecting with..since my Daihatsu feroza died a few months ago I havnt been able to get out prospecting my every day driver is to low to take off road so just thought I'd put it out there if anyone is thinking of selling there 4wd and live in vic I'd could be interested looking for something reliable but not a fuel guzzler with reg and under $5k
Cheers Mick

Gday Mickybees,
Theres a few good models in your budget around at the moment. Have a look at late 90s rav4s, hiluxes and subaru foresters as possibles, theres also suzuki sierras and jimnys in the small 4x4 side of things.

Also cheap now are late 90s/ early 00s jeep cherokees and the older shape GQ patrols (find one thats diesel and not super modified) or even a late 90s early 00s toyota prado.

Theres lots to choose from out there, best case scenario would be an ex soccer mum taxi with a service history.

Sorry I cant be of more help, im sure theres someone on here that know someone with a decent 4wd for sale.

TGW.

Hey thanks TGW I will check a few of those models you mentioned Iv aways been keen on Suzuki Sierras .patrols are awesome but very thirsty

In your budget go for a pajero 2000 2001 best driving 4x4 like a car small turning circle very comfortable and a true.4x4 will get you anywhere in stock condition and not to bad on petrol.

vstrom said:

In your budget go for a pajero 2000 2001 best driving 4x4 like a car small turning circle very comfortable and a true.4x4 will get you anywhere in stock condition and not to bad on petrol.

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I never thought of a Pajero I will check them out thanks vstorm

Mickybees said:

vstrom said:

In your budget go for a pajero 2000 2001 best driving 4x4 like a car small turning circle very comfortable and a true.4x4 will get you anywhere in stock condition and not to bad on petrol.

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I never thought of a Pajero I will check them out thanks vstorm

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If you buy a Pajero make sure It has had the Cam belt changed and it you are unsure get it changed as soon as possible. I bought one that was 8 years old and it had only done about 43,000ks and 3 days before I was going to get it changed at the Dealers It decided to Lunch the Valves although it had not done the mileage / Kms, it was old and it killed the truck.

Always change the Cam Belts on any Truck you Get just for the peace of mind,

hope this helps.

John.

I picked up 1999 Pajero petrol/Lpg recently for $3200. It's been great so far out in the gold fields. Came with road worthy and 12 months rego in Vic. I couldn't be happier

Mines got 280,000on it ,belts done runs like a clock.

Pajero 91 to 99 is your best bang for buck (In that 4x4 size range) and parts are cheap and readily available but the petrols are thirsty (weighing in at 2 tonne and the aerodynamics of a brick doesn't help) .................. depends how far your travelling to detect ? Also if your towing any weight ? I tow nearly 2 tonne when going away so what ever I use has to have both the towing capacity and the guts to pull it and the Pajero does both plus I have about 8 of them so parts are never an issue. You could pick up a good clean NJ - NH paj for 1500 with rwc and reg but certainly don't buy if fuel economy is a big factor. Mines done over 60K in past 6 months and never missed a beat. 5K could put you in an NM - NP Pajero but they are the first of monocoque construction if you want chassis for better towing go pre NM model as they have a full chassis still. Year 2000 was the changeover from NL to NM
Jeeps ..................... far to expensive to fix and a troublesome vehicle.
If towing and loads not important a little Suzuki or Diahatsu as you had would be the go but usually would be a little higher in price Many factors to consider and as usual a trade off along the way is usually required as probably nothing will tick every box

And that's why you want the NM it doesn't drive like a 4x4 so comfortable on long trips been in to many 4x4 that constantly bounce you around and still get you anywhere in the hills .Petrol 650 to a tank not to bad for a heavy car.I got mine reg rwc $4500.

Put a decent suspension under the chassis model and alls good .................... the only advantage the NM probably has is independant coil suspension so you can get a bit more travel over torsion bar front. BUT the model before with chassis can pull a load that will widen the rear door gaps of an NM .............. the NM ABS brake master costs over 3K and they have a bit of a habit of lunching the transfer case in heavy going and also twisting the carbon fibre rear tail shaft inside out Temp module in back of dash also common failure and don't break the air box as it's over $600 to replace
NL and previous models much cheaper to maintain I'm afraid.
Not having a shot at your vehicle Vstrom and its a nice looking rig especially for the dollars just putting the pros and cons out there for the OP

Hey guys thanks heaps for all the info Iv learned a lot from you all.. do u need to do the timing belt on the Pajero and if so does anyone know roughly how much that costs ?

Yes every 100K timing belt to be replaced. The 3 litre timing kit $120, 3.5 Timing kit with tensioner around $450 (trade price) plus what ever your friendly mechanic hits you for labour. 3 litre ran in NH - NJ (91 to 95 models) quad cam NK late 95 to late 97 NL SOHC 3.5 ran late 97 to early 2000 then went into NM models. All those models also available in diesel 4D56 2.5 litre in NH & NJ and 4M40 2.8 in NJ and models after that. Also turbo and non turbo variants of both.
If you not going to tow and just want for prospecting and getting out there go the 3 litre as it's a clearance motor and doesn't bend valves if cam belt breaks or jumps a tooth. The 3.5 break a belt or tensioner fail and cam belt jumps teeth your probably going to be up for around 3.5 K to fix as it's a non clearance motor and will lunch the valves then requiring heads to be removed and reconditioned

Thanks I will keep that in mind..I won't be towing with it. It's strictly a prospecting vehicle so the 3lt would do me fine cheers Bogger

Pros and cons to every vehicle, personally not a huge fan of mitsubishis build quality in general but that said ive seen some pajeros get through tricky spots too.

A well maintained diesel will cost you less in fuel, diesel patrol, prado, hilux or pajero are good options.
Fuel economy is better than their petrol counterparts, but the trade off is service.
Letting a diesel goo too long without proper servicing is harder on engine componants than a petrol motor which can in turn cost you more in repairs.

Also as has been mentioned its worth thinking of the worst terrain you expect to travel through, this will affect the kind of suspension you will need.

Older 4x4s genrally have 2 solid axles which allow for more flex in the suspension and durability of the driveline when tackling obstacles like deep ruts and rock steps. However it makes for a more jostling ride as the suspension and driveline twist and sway in order to keep the most traction possible.

Newer vehicles early 00s onward tend toward a solid rear axle and independant front suspension which uses cv shaft to connect with the front diff.
During travel over rough terrain the front suspension has to work harder to keep grip and extreme angles will see it struggle to grip on one side. This in turn causes more wear on driveline cvs and diff internals.
Having this type of suspension makes for an easier ride though and allows a large 4x4 to handle like a large sedan on road.

Its also worth paying attention to the chassis as bogger mentioned. It varies depending on make and model but most medium to large 4x4s and some small ones have a separate body bolted onto a chassis frame to which the motor, driveline and suspension are attached.
This means that tortion of the chassis during rough offroading or pulling a vehicle free wont twist or stretch the bodywork above.
Its easy to see the difference, when you look under a 2 piece body and chassis you can clearly see the large rectangular tube frame and the rubber mounts that join it to the body above. As opposed to a 1 piece or monocoque chassis where the body is moulded directly to the chassis and all other components are bolted onto the one piece.


Example of a Solid Front Axle.


Example of Independent Front Axle.


Example of 2 Piece Chassis.


Example of a monocoque chassis.

The Green Wanderer said:

Pros and cons to every vehicle, personally not a huge fan of mitsubishis build quality in general but that said ive seen some pajeros get through tricky spots too.

A well maintained diesel will cost you less in fuel, diesel patrol, prado, hilux or pajero are good options.
Fuel economy is better than their petrol counterparts, but the trade off is service.
Letting a diesel goo too long without proper servicing is harder on engine componants than a petrol motor which can in turn cost you more in repairs.

Also as has been mentioned its worth thinking of the worst terrain you expect to travel through, this will affect the kind of suspension you will need.

Older 4x4s genrally have 2 solid axles which allow for more flex in the suspension and durability of the driveline when tackling obstacles like deep ruts and rock steps. However it makes for a more jostling ride as the suspension and driveline twist and sway in order to keep the most traction possible.

Newer vehicles early 00s onward tend toward a solid rear axle and independant front suspension which uses cv shaft to connect with the front diff.
During travel over rough terrain the front suspension has to work harder to keep grip and extreme angles will see it struggle to grip on one side. This in turn causes more wear on driveline cvs and diff internals.
Having this type of suspension makes for an easier ride though and allows a large 4x4 to handle like a large sedan on road.

Its also worth paying attention to the chassis as bogger mentioned. It varies depending on make and model but most medium to large 4x4s and some small ones have a separate body bolted onto a chassis frame to which the motor, driveline and suspension are attached.
This means that tortion of the chassis during rough offroading or pulling a vehicle free wont twist or stretch the bodywork above.
Its easy to see the difference, when you look under a 2 piece body and chassis you can clearly see the large rectangular tube frame and the rubber mounts that join it to the body above. As opposed to a 1 piece or monocoque chassis where the body is moulded directly to the chassis and all other components are bolted onto the one piece.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/784/1474722575_images.jpg
Example of a Solid Front Axle.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/784/1474722733_images.jpg
Example of Independent Front Axle.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co..._land-rover-discovery-chassis-replacement.jpg
Example of 2 Piece Chassis.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/784/1474723296_images.jpg
Example of a monocoque chassis.

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thanks TGW .Id like to get a diesel but for the money I have I'd only get something with high km but I'm still looking cheers for the information I have a lot to consider now

No problems mate, happy to help.
Let us know what rig you decide to get.

Hi dose any one know where I can get a Le trap sluice in Australia we have been on eBay but only in USA can anyone help thanks

Little gem hunter said:

Hi dose any one know where I can get a Le trap sluice in Australia we have been on eBay but only in USA can anyone help thanks

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It might be best to start a new thread in the alluvial gold section LGH.

Cheers

The Green Wanderer said:

No problems mate, happy to help.
Let us know what rig you decide to get.

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Will mate cheers