Some things you need to know about canvas

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kawman

steve wardle
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Up until early 1980 canvas had arsnick and strictnene in the proofing compound and mould and mildue did not happen.. All modern quality canvas has another chemical in it that is nowhere as good as the old toxic stuff was.. we now have to take precautions against mould by NEVER putting canvas under trees without a poly tarp cover to stop the veg matter from getting on the canvas as this is where the mould triggers from.. It is also very important to clean the canvas with very soft brush and clean water regularly to keep the canvas clean and stop the midue getting a foot hold.. No soap det or bleach to be used.. stains are permanent... Mild mildue can be addressed by lightly brushing down with a soft brush and getting some good strong sunlight on it.. the stains will stay but the mould will be sanitised by the sunlight and be dead... Never leave the canvas outside in the sun for long unused periods because the total outside usage of camping canvas is only a few short years... every day out of the sun is another day in its life.. looked after can last a lifetime.. I put this up in the hope of helping you guys get the best out of your gear... :)
 
I will offer free professional advice on this forum for all our members.. Ask away.. :D
Beagleboy said:
Thanks kawman. Very handy post as I was just about to clean my swag. :)
 
Very usefull, thanks. Where can one buy cheap as possible polly tarp around canberra?
 
whats the best/cheapest product for, how do i say, re-water proofing ya swag/ tarp/ dryzabone etc ??
 
kawman said:
I will offer free professional advice on this forum for all our members.. Ask away.. :D
Beagleboy said:
Thanks kawman. Very handy post as I was just about to clean my swag. :)

I got a swag from my cousin as he is buying roof top tent (he has a problem with creepy crawlies :D ) but it needs a clean. I was gonna just scrub it with some detergent but now I don't think that would be the best for the canvas. Should I just hose it down and let it dry? Is it ok to dry it in the sun? It's about 5 years old but only used few times. It is an oztrail brand.
Also the swag is missing mattress. I was going to get some 70 mm thick foam from Clark rubber (the one that looks like egg carton). Would it be better to get self inflatable mattress? I want to be able to roll it all up with the mattress inside.
Thanks for your help.
 
trenchfighter said:
whats the best/cheapest product for, how do i say, re-water proofing ya swag/ tarp/ dryzabone etc ??

I have a couple of drizabone/oilskin jackets that I brought from my uncles farm which are absolutely filthy. What is the best way to clean them?
 
Saying that you cant go wrong with a bit of vinegar and sea salt, then wash it down let to dry
 
Hey beagle boy, my swag mattress sh!t itself a while back, so i invested in a 4x4 self inflating matress, bit expensive i reckon anyway, think it was about $120?? somthen like that. Anyway, its not too bad man aye, pretty good actually. thing is tho, when ya store it, ya gotta store it lay'd out with the bungs out. so it just lives under my bed.
oh, its um, 70mm thick i think....
 
trenchfighter said:
Hey beagle boy, my swag mattress sh!t itself a while back, so i invested in a 4x4 self inflating matress, bit expensive i reckon anyway, think it was about $120?? somthen like that. Anyway, its not too bad man aye, pretty good actually. thing is tho, when ya store it, ya gotta store it lay'd out with the bungs out. so it just lives under my bed.
oh, its um, 70mm thick i think....

I have one of those as well (double) and love it. It is a bitch to roll up so I know what you mean. :) It is bit big for the swag though. The swag is single king size.
 
never use anything other than plain water to clean canvas because you will strip the waterproofing and mould inhibitors from the canvas.. I will not give quotes on this site.. Only advice...the best water proofing/mould inhibitor is bradmill waterproofing compound.. wet weather gear is usualy oiled/waxed and there are a few products out there that work ok..Dubins being one of them.. silicone spray is NOT one of them and should never be used on canvas as a waterproofing agent.. Silicone spray should however be used on the zippers to stop the slides from wearing out and not closing the zipper.. The advice that I can offer is mostly about Australian made canvas and pvc goods.. I started my trade in 1970 and have done a lot of great stuff over the years.. The best foam is to buy is the really high density stuff not the cheap stuff that is mostly sold to the unwary... waterproofing is not an option for nylon products... :)
 
kawman said:
Up until early 1980 canvas had arsnick and strictnene in the proofing compound and mould and mildue did not happen.. All modern quality canvas has another chemical in it that is nowhere as good as the old toxic stuff was.. we now have to take precautions against mould by NEVER putting canvas under trees without a poly tarp cover to stop the veg matter from getting on the canvas as this is where the mould triggers from.. It is also very important to clean the canvas with very soft brush and clean water regularly to keep the canvas clean and stop the midue getting a foot hold.. No soap det or bleach to be used.. stains are permanent... Mild mildue can be addressed by lightly brushing down with a soft brush and getting some good strong sunlight on it.. the stains will stay but the mould will be sanitised by the sunlight and be dead... Never leave the canvas outside in the sun for long unused periods because the total outside usage of camping canvas is only a few short years... every day out of the sun is another day in its life.. looked after can last a lifetime.. I put this up in the hope of helping you guys get the best out of your gear... :)

I've been around for a lot of years & I didn't know that thanks Kawman
 
I always thought canvas tents had to be oiled every 12 months or so to keep them water proof. Well that's what I got told. Plus they are bloody expensive! Reason why I went with a Coleman pop up and bought a tarp to cover it
 
use bradmill water proofing compound. it has mould inhibitors built in and is the same one used in your canvas as per original... I have seen leaks in similar models where the canvas seal at the top of the door is fitted.. Vans with canvas pop out ends should have canvas flys fitted over the top of the bed ends to help keep things dry and cool in the sun.. Be very careful playing around with chemicals because you may harm the canvas...Never pressure wash or use any soap,bleach or other chemicals on the canvas as it will strip out the proofing and make the canvas leak... If your leaks are thru the stitching water proofing will not stop the leaks.. very common problem.. If this is the case waxing the seams is your only option... Leaking seams happen when the person doing the work uses a needle that is far too big that makes very big holes in the canvas that the thread cannot fill letting thru water... Canvas end flys are probably the way to go.. :)
condor22 said:
Kawman

I have a Windsor Rapid Caravan, it has canvas walls on the beds each end. Last winter after heavy rain it let water in. Is this stuff any good?

http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Coi-Aqua-Proof-5-Litre.aspx?pid=316707#Cross

If not where can I get the Bradmill waterproofing from?
 
The bradmill compound is available from most canvas wholesalers goodearl and bailey Sydney being one of them... :)
kawman said:
use bradmill water proofing compound. it has mould inhibitors built in and is the same one used in your canvas as per original... I have seen leaks in similar models where the canvas seal at the top of the door is fitted.. Vans with canvas pop out ends should have canvas flys fitted over the top of the bed ends to help keep things dry and cool in the sun.. Be very careful playing around with chemicals because you may harm the canvas...Never pressure wash or use any soap,bleach or other chemicals on the canvas as it will strip out the proofing and make the canvas leak... If your leaks are thru the stitching water proofing will not stop the leaks.. very common problem.. If this is the case waxing the seams is your only option... Leaking seams happen when the person doing the work uses a needle that is far too big that makes very big holes in the canvas that the thread cannot fill letting thru water... Canvas end flys are probably the way to go.. :)
condor22 said:
Kawman

I have a Windsor Rapid Caravan, it has canvas walls on the beds each end. Last winter after heavy rain it let water in. Is this stuff any good?

http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Coi-Aqua-Proof-5-Litre.aspx?pid=316707#Cross

If not where can I get the Bradmill waterproofing from?
 
Thanks Kawman, I don't need a tarp on the bed roof, it's a lift up Alum lid, only the end and sides are canvas, the lid has a reasonable overhang and I found that the bottom 6" was the main area that was passing water in. I'll post a pic later today.
 

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