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Guest
hahah right?!
MINELAB F1A4 ex military metal detectors - tips, settings, questions
- Thread starter Colin&Lee
- Start date
Help Support Prospecting Australia:
mozzie1957
Wayne Blyton
Is anyone able to help me in determining what this part is?
2nd from the right, front, on the bottom board of the F1A4.
Successfully managed to snap a leg. Don't ask me how, it's
really been one of those days.
Sorry as to the photo but should give an idea as to the location.
2nd from the right, front, on the bottom board of the F1A4.
Successfully managed to snap a leg. Don't ask me how, it's
really been one of those days.
Sorry as to the photo but should give an idea as to the location.
G
Guest
It is a capacitor, if you carefully scratch off the pain you 'should' be able to get a part number off it.. (if ML haven't removed it)
You could also de-solder the cap, tap the broken leg with a wire, hot glue the cap to the board, and tack the wire to the pad on the board (dodgy but effective)
-LT
rs-components digikey (maybe Jaycar) will have a replacement...
You could also de-solder the cap, tap the broken leg with a wire, hot glue the cap to the board, and tack the wire to the pad on the board (dodgy but effective)
-LT
rs-components digikey (maybe Jaycar) will have a replacement...
mozzie1957
Wayne Blyton
LazyTrommel said:
Thanks LT. All the white paint is a pain. Paint stripper?
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Guest
It works, use it carefully though, some of that crap is corrosive..mozzie1957 said:
I was adding a real tone potentiometer to one the other day, and snapped off the 10 turn pot in the audio circuit, no big drama since i was replacing it anyway, but ya.. scary feeling...
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Guest
mozzie1957 said:
As it turns out, the very trim pot right next to that capacitor LOL..
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where can i get a stock unit for $600-750? the one on gumtree this week is now gone and i think id like to get the stock unit and let the Mod Battle field settle a bit before upgrading it.
Anyone know where there is stock?
cheers - danny
Anyone know where there is stock?
cheers - danny
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Guest
http://www.manheim.com.au/trucks-machinery/auctions/trksa117/page2/p?franchiseID=MANHEIM
Auction, you might get on cheap..
Auction, you might get on cheap..
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yeah i saw that but they dont start til 16-09, ive been like a kid in a candy store this week, "I want one nooooow.." 
i might keep an eye on manheim and take a crack when they come up in a few weeks to resell etc, but any ideas or news on where there is current stock would be appreciated.
i might keep an eye on manheim and take a crack when they come up in a few weeks to resell etc, but any ideas or news on where there is current stock would be appreciated.
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Guest
Yeah, its a pain in the arse... hate waiting...
I picked up 2 damaged units yesterday, $320 (not working)... got one repaired, working on the other currently.. It lives also! just waiting for the correct IC to arrive.
and both will be out the door..
I picked up 2 damaged units yesterday, $320 (not working)... got one repaired, working on the other currently.. It lives also! just waiting for the correct IC to arrive.
and both will be out the door..
Hi Mozzie,
That cap you broke is a 47uf 16v. Try and get a short one at they foul with the ferrite on the coil plug. The + side is closest to the edge of the board.
Don't use paint stripper, it is bad stuff and goes under the components and can cause headaches later on down the track.
Lt, please explain how you snap off a 10 turn trim pot?!
AuMan
That cap you broke is a 47uf 16v. Try and get a short one at they foul with the ferrite on the coil plug. The + side is closest to the edge of the board.
Don't use paint stripper, it is bad stuff and goes under the components and can cause headaches later on down the track.
Lt, please explain how you snap off a 10 turn trim pot?!
AuMan
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Guest
Already sold..
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Guest
AuMan said:
You know how sometimes when you're de soldering something, and the bugger just wont let go?? well i figured I'd wiggle it a bit... gave it a little too much force and ripped the legs right off.. I've since purchased a far better soldering station, Hakko FX-951
Rhino tools one was a POS..Reason i was replacing that pot, was because it controls tone.. Now my F1 sounds like a 2200..
happy days..
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Guest
AuMan said:Use some hot air from your hot air solder station to heat the board and assist in the removal of through hole components. They normally fall out.
Yes I know exactly what that pot does...
AuMan
Wish someone had told me that before i removed and changed out a couple resistors to get the same effect :|
ohwell i know now and learned something in the process..
I don't own a hot air station currently, I did for a while, one of those Atten jobs from China, worked great for a while, then just stopped
might be time for another... since they're so cheap these days..
KarlS
Karl
Just use bit more solder on the solder joint. Make sure that your soldering iron is not too hot, about 300 degree C or bit less. After heating the joint and componend leg for about 3 to 4 seconds you can pull the component out. Then clean up with solder wick. Unheated solder suckered aren't much good to clean holes. Do same with SM chips. Run the solder across the pins and to short them out. It require bit of juggling to have molten solder on both sides of IC . You can use two soldering irons for that . Most important is that the soldering iron is not too hot.
Karl
Karl
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Guest
KarlS said:
Thanks Karl, still pretty new to all this electronics stuff... this new soldering station is a beast, 18 seconds from off to go..
KarlS
Karl
No worries, if you need some advice from old guy with life long experience in electronics, just ask. I don't profess to know everything, but if I can help I will
Karl
Karl
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Guest
Will do, thanks again..
