Whites SPP Adding Conductivity switch

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Karl, Just a thought try with the 12" mono and see if that makes a difference. I got an idea this DD coil is not allowing the machine to disc. properly. I think Zuke mentioned this early about his TDI Pro and DD coils. Early this morning i done a test in ground on .3 gram nugget and i was surprised how well the SPP did using 8" commander mono coil. I have no doubt karl if you slow down your sweep speed keep the coil close to the ground and you ground balance often you will find gold, if its about. :)
 
What are the main benefits of the conductivity switch for gold prospecting?
I haven't fitted mine yet as I wanted to get the feel of the standard unit.
Someone also said that the switch is really only of benefit when coin hunting? true/false?
 
False! Flicked into Low will cut down on noise and EMI and ignore a certain amount of gold field trash.
Saying it's only any good for coin hunting has obviously come from someone with no knowledge of the TDI series.

Also flicked into Low allows adjustment of the ground balance to tune out ANY hot ground making the SPP run as smooth if not smoother than the GPX 5000.

Yep I said it and I will back that up.
 
thanks guys, look forward to fitting it up.
I must say I was very impressed with how smooth it ran with the MJ 11 x 7 coil so be interesting to see the difference with the switch.
 
hi, is it possible to add a pulse delay button to whites spp?there is a connector for that at the motherboard... or is locked by software? thanks
 
I have read this and wish to add a conductivity switch to my TDI BeachHunter.
I have identified the cables with crimps 820-1393 and plug 752-1737 on https://uk.rs-online.com but I am unsure as to which switch I should order.
I see (On) Off (On) and On Off On which has added to my confusion and uncertainity. I read on some descriptions that they were IP67 and boot seals were not needed.
I do not mind a belts and braces approach and adding a seal for a bit more waterprrofness.
The unit will not be used underwater, but it does rain a lot here.
I hope someone can post a part number or link.
Thank you,
Regards,
Rog
 
I have read this and wish to add a conductivity switch to my TDI BeachHunter.
I have identified the cables with crimps 820-1393 and plug 752-1737 on https://uk.rs-online.com but I am unsure as to which switch I should order.
I see (On) Off (On) and On Off On which has added to my confusion and uncertainity. I read on some descriptions that they were IP67 and boot seals were not needed.
I do not mind a belts and braces approach and adding a seal for a bit more waterprrofness.
The unit will not be used underwater, but it does rain a lot here.
I hope someone can post a part number or link.
Thank you,
Regards,
Rog
I have no experience with this mod (or the detector) however the (On) Off (On) switch will be a spring return to OFF while the On Off On will latch in each position. I'd suggest you use the waterproof or splashproof version of whichever switch you choose.
 
I have no experience with this mod (or the detector) however the (On) Off (On) switch will be a spring return to OFF while the On Off On will latch in each position. I'd suggest you use the waterproof or splashproof version of whichever switch you choose.
Conductivity switch on TDIs latch in each position, High, All, Low.

In the High / Low position they cut off the Top/Bottom of the signal wave form.

It is a rudimentary but effective form of iron discrimination. It works in a bit different manner to the VLF machines type of discrimination so a TDI will mask and see different objects to a VLF. its not necessarily better, just different, which is often enough to find you that piece that others missed.
 
Conductivity switch on TDIs latch in each position, High, All, Low.

In the High / Low position they cut off the Top/Bottom of the signal wave form.

It is a rudimentary but effective form of iron discrimination. It works in a bit different manner to the VLF machines type of discrimination so a TDI will mask and see different objects to a VLF. its not necessarily better, just different, which is often enough to find you that piece that others missed.
Thanks XLOOX, that suggests that Rog needs an ON OFF ON switch.
The other detail needed to be determined is the physical size of the switch and how it's to be mounted. I assume from the info provided so far Rog should be able to choose an appropriate switch.
 
Thank you both, I am a step nearer as I have now learnt the differences in the two types of switches.
I own the SL so I am accustomed to the switch's use. I will look again at the site to see if I can determine which one may be suitable; but if anyone can suggest a suuitable one I would be grateful.
 
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Thank you both, I am a step nearer as I have now learnt the differences in the two types of switches.
I own the SL so I am accustomed to the switche's use. I will look again at the site to see if I can determine which one may be suitable; but if anyone can suggest a suuitable one I would be grateful.
Rog, I've got no idea if you need a double or single pole switche throw switch. Are you able to provide a link to a schematic of the modification?
Given it will only be switching low volt/current signals (An educated guess from XLOOX's description) then I would suggest either of the below will physically suit but need to determine if you need a double (RS Stock No.:448-0775) or single pole (RS Stock No.:734-7233) switch first.
 
The schematic is probably not available and I doubt Garretts would provide a copy as they now own the right to it.
I have not found the opening description and pictures.
I have no confidence in taking things like detectors apart. Once I get the bits, I will be paying someone to solder the 3 wires onto the toggle switch and connecting 3 wires to plug then putting onto board.
I have bamboozled myself with looking at over 20 switches online and even when I thought I had one that may have suited, I was even more confused as totally failed to match up a boot.
So, I have given up trying to sort out a switch and boot now; it is beyong my capabilities.
Regards,
Rog
 
Well I plucked up the courage to open the box but was unable to unscrew the outside nut to dismount it for a clearer view.
I did manage to take one clear picture of one side, but failed on the other.
I will add both though. I have phoned RS Online in UK and described the stamps but that didn't result in identifying an equivalent switch.
Regards,
Rog
 

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Well I plucked up the courage to open the box but was unable to unscrew the outside nut to dismount it for a clearer view.
I did manage to take one clear picture of one side, but failed on the other.
I will add both though. I have phoned RS Online in UK and described the stamps but that didn't result in identifying an equivalent switch.
Regards,
Rog
That's a very ordinary switch, so the ID numbers aren't important as long as the functionality is the same. Somebody here more technical than me should be able to easily confirm the suitable replacement.
 
Well I plucked up the courage to open the box but was unable to unscrew the outside nut to dismount it for a clearer view.
I did manage to take one clear picture of one side, but failed on the other.
I will add both though. I have phoned RS Online in UK and described the stamps but that didn't result in identifying an equivalent switch.
Regards,
Rog
What you need is an ON OFF ON 3 position SPDT toggle switch. not momentary !

voltage and amperage ratings irrelevant as application V and A both are very low.

Size not so important either

if you are not mounting on box , then after soldering I would just coat the exposed terminals in liquid electrical tape. This will help with rain resistance but is impossible to make these switches truly waterproof.
 

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Well I plucked up the courage to open the box but was unable to unscrew the outside nut to dismount it for a clearer view.
I did manage to take one clear picture of one side, but failed on the other.
I will add both though. I have phoned RS Online in UK and described the stamps but that didn't result in identifying an equivalent switch.
Regards,
Rog
Rog,
The Pic helped tremendously. You need a SPDT switch. The RS Stock No.:734-7233 previously identified should do the job for you.
 
Images of White's last SPP circuit board on left, on the right is the Tdi Sl. Please note there are real differences.
Hope this is of some help, all the best for 2024.
 

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Images of White's last SPP circuit board on left, on the right is the Tdi Sl. Please note there are real differences.
Hope this is of some help, all the best for 2024.
On both boards just top left of the black headphone socket there is a cream connector socket marked "Cond Mode". It looks like a 3 Pin PH type to me. Buy a premade cable and if has both male and female connectors installed just cut off the female.

solder the three wires to your switch and you are good to go

The switch will wire to the board in the same way as the SL. (I hope you took detailed board and switch photos when you had the SL apart :) ).

You need to get the centre wire right, the other 2 are totally swappable, you will figure out which way is Hi/Lo when you test its sound vs SL on similar targets

Hopefully that is all you need to do.

Let us know how you go as this thread can then form a reference for others.

If it is a crock we also need to know !
 

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