Garrett Deepseeker A.D.S - No Audio

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G'day guys, just wondering if anyone has experience with the Garrett Deepseeker A.D.S or similar with fixing audio issues. I'm getting nothing at all. Seems to have power being sent all over the board, transistors seems fine, I have recapped the main electrolytics as they seemed a little puffy and leaky, but still nothing from the speaker or headphone jack. Speaker works as I get a crunch when I touch 9V onto it. Any hints appreciated!

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Hmm, 40+ years ago is a l-o-n-g time to recall any details!
Do you know how to drive one or is this your first time?
Is a coil connected?
Does the two-way battery test switch work in both directions?
 
Hmm, 40+ years ago is a l-o-n-g time to recall any details!
Do you know how to drive one or is this your first time?
Is a coil connected?
Does the two-way battery test switch work in both directions?
Hiya mate, yeah all the standard stuff is sweet. It actually made sound randomly earlier when I turned it on again for the 500th time. It ran for a bit then went quiet and now back to no sound but the needle works fine and reacts to metal as it should.

I don't know. I'm thinking the main on/off knob could be the issue here but don't know where to replace
 
Ok, that's somewhat encouraging. I assume you've double-checked the polarity of the electrolytics that you replaced?

You didn't say whether you know the drill for operating these beasts, so I'll run through the basics below. I've only used them in VLF, zero discrimination mode, but I've successfully hunted both coin and treasure targets at parks, old homesites and beaches (in dry and wet sand and shallow water), as well as nuggets in the Victorian goldfields.

Firstly, switch on and leave the Sensitivity at the barely On position - DO NOT turn it further clockwise, as this will reduce sensitivity (counter-intuitive I know, but this is a Garrett)!

Flip the handle toggle switch to the left, to ensure VLF mode is engaged. Forget about TR mode - always use VLF.

Turn the TR/Discrimination knob fully anti-clockwise (to zero) and leave it there permanently.

The Tuning section controls the threshold. Flip the switch upwards to Automatic and leave it there permanently. Use the Metal - Null pot to set a low but audible threshold. The so-called Automatic Detection System (ADS), is just an auto-returning threshold, but makes all the difference in mineralised ground, as the only control that counts is the 10-turn Ground Balance.

Set the Ground Balance by bouncing the coil up and down below knee height and turning the multi-turn pot until you find a point where the threshhold volume is as stable as possible while the coil is moving both up and down. This is very easy to do once you've done it a few times, but it will need constant attention while prospecting, as ground balance is wholly manual - there is NO ground-tracking function.

From memory, the Deepseeker operates at 6.6kHz, which is an extremely low frequency for maximum signal penetration, but with the penalty of being very noisy in mineralised ground. The smaller 15kHz Groundhog was much friendlier to use (quieter) and more sensitive to small gold, but supposedly gave away some depth to the mighty Deepseeker.

I hope this helps - good luck.
 
Ok, that's somewhat encouraging. I assume you've double-checked the polarity of the electrolytics that you replaced?

You didn't say whether you know the drill for operating these beasts, so I'll run through the basics below. I've only used them in VLF, zero discrimination mode, but I've successfully hunted both coin and treasure targets at parks, old homesites and beaches (in dry and wet sand and shallow water), as well as nuggets in the Victorian goldfields.

Firstly, switch on and leave the Sensitivity at the barely On position - DO NOT turn it further clockwise, as this will reduce sensitivity (counter-intuitive I know, but this is a Garrett)!

Flip the handle toggle switch to the left, to ensure VLF mode is engaged. Forget about TR mode - always use VLF.

Turn the TR/Discrimination knob fully anti-clockwise (to zero) and leave it there permanently.

The Tuning section controls the threshold. Flip the switch upwards to Automatic and leave it there permanently. Use the Metal - Null pot to set a low but audible threshold. The so-called Automatic Detection System (ADS), is just an auto-returning threshold, but makes all the difference in mineralised ground, as the only control that counts is the 10-turn Ground Balance.

Set the Ground Balance by bouncing the coil up and down below knee height and turning the multi-turn pot until you find a point where the threshhold volume is as stable as possible while the coil is moving both up and down. This is very easy to do once you've done it a few times, but it will need constant attention while prospecting, as ground balance is wholly manual - there is NO ground-tracking function.

From memory, the Deepseeker operates at 6.6kHz, which is an extremely low frequency for maximum signal penetration, but with the penalty of being very noisy in mineralised ground. The smaller 15kHz Groundhog was much friendlier to use (quieter) and more sensitive to small gold, but supposedly gave away some depth to the mighty Deepseeker.

I hope this helps - good luck.
Yeah bud, like I mentioned the standard operating of the device is sweet. My issue is zero sound out of it at all. No pop or crackle when turning it on, no noise when turning any knobs on either VLF or TR mode. No threshold noise.. literally nothing, except that one exception where some noise started randomly, but I'm unable to find that cause. I've resoldered the entire board and wires, I've recapped (yes polarity is fine, as I mentioned the needle is functioning fine and reacts to metals/ground), I've removed and tested all transistors, the step down transformer. All resistors are fine and showing correct resistance. I have logic probed all the chips which seem to be pulling high and low as the manual suggests for those chips. I just really need someone who's had the same issue who can guide me to a direction, as I'm not seeing where the problem is after so much testing, or someone who can say exactly where the fault most likely is on the board. I still suspect it to be the main on/off switch, as it's the only thing I can't really get into. Trying to find a replacement or another detector the same
 
Not sure if you have seen these . Geotech one has a pdf schematic

https://metaldetectingforum.com/index.php?threads/garrett-groundhog-ads-no-sound.10053/

https://www.geotech1.com/forums/for...a-d-s-vlf-tr-deepseeker-with-bad-sound-output

Its been too long ago. The whole reason I had 2 ADSs is that the audio went on one and I bought a mainswitch and replaced it and it worked again but not well so I bought another ADS.
If only I had bought a SD2000 instead !
I did look at these two websites yesterday while I was researching, but didn't realise the second one had multiple pages on the forum. That helped me look further into the transistors again and yep, after removing the NSDU45 I noticed a damage trace on the board, and the transistor is also on its way out. So currently it is now making 'some' noise but very quiet, and I'll leave it up to the owner if he wants me to fix that as it's a $40 transistor. I've cleaned it up for him, as well as another that had basic solder issues
 

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I am a previous Garrett technician, etc. The most common problem for no audio with the Garrett Deepseeker is with the on/off switch. which has two switches. One switch is for the main detector circuit and the other supplies 9 volts to the audio circuit. You will probably find that this switch is not working and not supplying the 9 volts to the circuit.
 
Also .. could have faulty speaker or speaker jack / switch .. do you hear sound with phones .. forget if it had jack or not ..
 
Ex technician here. Having spent many many hours repairing Cameras over the years (caps leaking throughout) be sure to check all lines around leaked caps, as the electrolyte will eat away thru board links, tracks, etc etc. Also, did you clean pcb of any electrolyte, before fitting new caps?? Switch as suggested above sounds about right for complete loss of audio, check for gnd and rail volts at amps.
 
G'day guys, just wondering if anyone has experience with the Garrett Deepseeker A.D.S or similar with fixing audio issues. I'm getting nothing at all. Seems to have power being sent all over the board, transistors seems fine, I have recapped the main electrolytics as they seemed a little puffy and leaky, but still nothing from the speaker or headphone jack. Speaker works as I get a crunch when I touch 9V onto it. Any hints appreciated!

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Did this issue get resolved?
 
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