DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES and BUSH POWER

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condor22 said:
Tomorrow's job/s - Re prepping the Jurgens for trade in

Remove the following; 100 AH Lithium, Voltech 240 VAC charger, USB twin charger and cig socket, (I made a small plate to install these where the OEM volt gauge, LED type) 12 station fuse block, terminal strips and posts for common earth et etc. Also the Remotes for the Voltech charger and the BM320 monitor.

Reinstall the crappy Omegalec charger/distribution module and voltmeter, then reconnect it all.

Buy a cheap GEL or AGM to go with the van.

Also going to remove the Sirroco Fan and the multi 12 V power box for TV, Satellite, Fan and spare.

Then it's off to Bunnings for some wood filler to fill all the screw holes.

Shame to do so, but gonna need to leave the diesel heater in situ and the solar.

Biggest problem will be finding somewhere to store what's in the van as my recent home move was a significant downsize. :)

Have you really got that much to take out ?? The upside to the delay in getting the new one is it gives you time to get all those jobs done. :8

The best bit about the New Van is with Twin Lithiums plus 2 panels you are going to have a much neater/faster system, Plus all the new gear that comes with it. :perfect:

That new fridge is a game changer coz you wont be having to carry extra Butane/Propane so you will save weight and money there and the new fridge will be lighter too,

I haven't seen any Avans over here, they are in the US but not here, I have found a couple of light weight Vans over here that can carry 3-400kgs+ Loads,
 
Avan U.S. Is not the Oz Avan, they copied em and not the same quality or fit out. Totally different company. I watched some you tube vids the yanks did and asked the local dealer about the comments made, which is how I found out they are not the same.

Not a lot to take out - but they are not getting the Lithium, Charger or monitor and not getting the brand new Sphere TV/DVD. The Avan has not TV with it, so it'll go in there. Also removed the Sirocco.

Next job is to remove some adhesive pads and fill a few screw holes. Today I got the OEM power supply and volt gauge all re installed. I've decided to let them have the van with the stuffed awning, they can fix it. Might lower the trade in a little, but it will save me chasing one and some work.

Once I've emptied it, I'm taking it in for them to appraise, so they may as well have it to sell as well. In the unlikely event I want to go away, my mate will let me kip in his place and or I can go to a caravan park or motel for short trips. :)
 
A bit of info for interested others :) I have a 6 month break over the summer months (longer with the bloody virus, lol.) Therefore, I check and top up my battery operated equipment for any back drain or "stuffed" batteries during the break.

Thought I would use the 40Ah Companion Rover Lithium to do some recharges as it measures load. The Rover has 1 x cig socket, 2 x USB, 1 x USB 'C', 1 x 2 pin (Engel socket) and a standard Anderson as outlet sockets, among others.

I have the following plugged in at the same time - GPX5000 battery (Cig skt), Steelphase SP01 and Deteknix wireless headphones (2 x USB) and via the Anderson, an adaptor to another cig socket for 2 x 18650 Li-oN charger. With other adaptors I have, I can increase this to include the wireless transmitters, C Cell charger, UHF handheld and with the USB 'C' my mobile phone.

The total wattage to charge all of that is 30W or approx 2.3 amps (voltage is just over 13)

The way I intend to use this is charge these and other batteries in the evening rather than from the van batteries. Then put it into the 4x4 to recharge during the day from DC-DC or solar. The van batteries will be running a 110lt compressor fridge, 30lt drawer fridge, diesel heater, TV, Laptop, lights etc. I'm hoping that with the solar I'll have that I'll only use the genny initially for the microwave. Once I establish LPG usage now that there's no fridge involved, I'm looking to leave the genny at home, cook and heat water on gas.

Another use I thought of is the ultrasonic cleaner I carry and occasionally use to clean the yella stuff. It's 240VAC rated at 50W and works off my 150W inverter. Would pull around 5 amps for a few minutes, so bugger all battery capacity. (work it out lol, I'm too lazy). The inverter is also big enough to charge my electric toothbrush and shaver.

PS I have a Garmin E20 and an E10, both with 2 x Alkaline AA batteries, the E20 batteries were flat. The only time I use either is when prospecting. Why do I have 2 you may ask. Last trip I inadvertently left the E20 at home, so buying the E10 was cheaper than driving 1,200 kms home to get the 20, lol. Handy to have a spare anyway. :)
 
condor22 said:
A bit of info for interested others :) I have a 6 month break over the summer months (longer with the bloody virus, lol.) Therefore, I check and top up my battery operated equipment for any back drain or "stuffed" batteries during the break.

Thought I would use the 40Ah Companion Rover Lithium to do some recharges as it measures load. The Rover has 1 x cig socket, 2 x USB, 1 x USB 'C', 1 x 2 pin (Engel socket) and a standard Anderson as outlet sockets, among others.

I have the following plugged in at the same time - GPX5000 battery (Cig skt), Steelphase SP01 and Deteknix wireless headphones (2 x USB) and via the Anderson, an adaptor to another cig socket for 2 x 18650 Li-oN charger. With other adaptors I have, I can increase this to include the wireless transmitters, C Cell charger, UHF handheld and with the USB 'C' my mobile phone.

The total wattage to charge all of that is 30W or approx 2.3 amps (voltage is just over 13)

The way I intend to use this is charge these and other batteries in the evening rather than from the van batteries. Then put it into the 4x4 to recharge during the day from DC-DC or solar. The van batteries will be running a 110lt compressor fridge, 30lt drawer fridge, diesel heater, TV, Laptop, lights etc. I'm hoping that with the solar I'll have that I'll only use the genny initially for the microwave. Once I establish LPG usage now that there's no fridge involved, I'm looking to leave the genny at home, cook and heat water on gas.

Another use I thought of is the ultrasonic cleaner I carry and occasionally use to clean the yella stuff. It's 240VAC rated at 50W and works off my 150W inverter. Would pull around 5 amps for a few minutes, so bugger all battery capacity. (work it out lol, I'm too lazy). The inverter is also big enough to charge my electric toothbrush and shaver.

PS I have a Garmin E20 and an E10, both with 2 x Alkaline AA batteries, the E20 batteries were flat. The only time I use either is when prospecting. Why do I have 2 you may ask. Last trip I inadvertently left the E20 at home, so buying the E10 was cheaper than driving 1,200 kms home to get the 20, lol. Handy to have a spare anyway. :)

Yep, It's hard for people to realize just how much a 40Ah Rover / Lithium Battery can do when we are so use to hauling one or two 100-120Ah batteries around, Last month I went away for 3 days and I took a single PLB with me It got down to 70% SOC only because I never put it on charge using it to charge phones and run a TV over 3 nights,

I have just bought quite a few Low wattage AC Items that I can have on board as well as use at home and they will Axe the power bill as well as make longer trips a bit more doable, And in some cases save on Butane at the same time. :perfect:

The big PowerOak makes trips more like home away from home, But as long as a person never lets the 40Ah packs get to low and have a 100w panel hooked up then there is no reason to ever run out of power even on hot days running a fridge due to the charging speed because it only has to power the fridge during the night and once the sun is up it's back up to full again, :perfect:
 
G'Day

I really find all of these posts so interesting :)

I'm surprised that the 1st was "08 November 2014 05:32 pm"

So much has change since then

I think it should be illegal to courier these batteries if they are 'loose' as any circuit that is parallel is essentially creating a bomb, newbies should be very careful that a pack has a BMS that is appropriate VAW and decent wiring and supports for the solder joints.

condor22 said:
no voltage drop issues with powering the fridge due to its proximity to the battery.

This is the #1 reason why we now take the Lithium Ion BATs ( LIB ) to the appliance. Shortest cable possible, I'm only happy when the cable from the pack to the fridge is shorter than the cable inside the fridge.

Elon Musk said recently ( Not Publicly - because it would effect stock pricing ) that battery packs will in the future be willed onto children, because the cell cycles will be in the millions.

We have only been R&Ding LIB packs for 5+ years and we have found other BAT tech. chemistry, not LI that fully charge in a few hours and can store $100s in a portable pack. So it is theoretically possible ( not that I have done this !!! ) you can check-in to a hotel and 'steal' $350.00 elec. over night with a pack that cost < $5K, so the ROI is 12-15 charges to break even on a pack that can be charged 20,000 times.

Notice RedArc has recently released ( Dec. '21 ) a portable power 'brick' ->https://www.redarc.com.au/portable-powerso this is how the industry is going. Looks gr8, except I don't know anyone who has $3K to spend a LIB pack to run a fridge. But, this is another example of taking the LIB to the appliance, not wire the appliance to the BAT.

I have 3 x LED light bars in my 4x4 which are not wired to the 2nd BAT, but I connect to a LIB and have a remote control to turn on and off, I have been pulled over by a copper for breath testing and he said he thinks it is illegal because I'm not turning them on via high beam.

Just my 2c worth sat. musing
 
saau said:
G'Day

I really find all of these posts so interesting :)

I'm surprised that the 1st was "08 November 2014 05:32 pm"

So much has change since then

I think it should be illegal to courier these batteries if they are 'loose' as any circuit that is parallel is essentially creating a bomb, newbies should be very careful that a pack has a BMS that is appropriate VAW and decent wiring and supports for the solder joints.

condor22 said:
no voltage drop issues with powering the fridge due to its proximity to the battery.

This is the #1 reason why we now take the Lithium Ion BATs ( LIB ) to the appliance. Shortest cable possible, I'm only happy when the cable from the pack to the fridge is shorter than the cable inside the fridge.

Elon Musk said recently ( Not Publicly - because it would effect stock pricing ) that battery packs will in the future be willed onto children, because the cell cycles will be in the millions.

We have only been R&Ding LIB packs for 5+ years and we have found other BAT tech. chemistry, not LI that fully charge in a few hours and can store $100s in a portable pack. So it is theoretically possible ( not that I have done this !!! ) you can check-in to a hotel and 'steal' $350.00 elec. over night with a pack that cost < $5K, so the ROI is 12-15 charges to break even on a pack that can be charged 20,000 times.

Notice RedArc has recently released ( Dec. '21 ) a portable power 'brick' ->https://www.redarc.com.au/portable-powerso this is how the industry is going. Looks gr8, except I don't know anyone who has $3K to spend a LIB pack to run a fridge. But, this is another example of taking the LIB to the appliance, not wire the appliance to the BAT.

I have 3 x LED light bars in my 4x4 which are not wired to the 2nd BAT, but I connect to a LIB and have a remote control to turn on and off, I have been pulled over by a copper for breath testing and he said he thinks it is illegal because I'm not turning them on via high beam.

Just my 2c worth sat. musing

I don't know any battery that takes $350.00 to charge it and if there was such a thing it would take 3 road trains to carry it,

Well you will be surprized how many people do buy these big dollar batteries,

Things have moved on and you might need to rethink about that.
 
G'Day RR

No these packs are all very lite. But, LTOs are extremely expensive and no road train required.

The most basic LIB which will run a 12v/24v fridge using 7 Serial 2 Parallel (7s2p) 24 Volt ( Max. 29 ) for 20hrs fits inside a lunch box and weights 1.5Kgs.

We have a saying if you can barely lift the bat. put it down and walk away.
 
saau said:
G'Day RR

No these packs are all very lite. But, LTOs are extremely expensive and no road train required.

The most basic LIB which will run a 12v/24v fridge using 7 Serial 2 Parallel (7s2p) 24 Volt ( Max. 29 ) for 20hrs fits inside a lunch box and weights 1.5Kgs.

We have a saying if you can barely lift the bat. put it down and walk away.

I just bought 2 of those SoGen Packs worth $2600.00 a piece giving a total of 3600Wh, One for me and One for my Brother,

One of these things can run a small home or a Camper Trailer, All Up I have 4 of them 2x 512Wh, 1x 500Wh and now the bigger 1800Wh, Power is not an issue where if I do use Grid power all I need is 600 to 700w per day. without using my Lithium packs,

I have changed all my Appliance to to Low wattage Items, My last power Bill for 3 months was $37.20c
 
One word of advice, check your battery specs. My Pylontech user manual comes with the following info;

1. The number of Parallel connections is limited to 8 pieces
2. Ensure that the voltage difference between the batteries should not exceed 0.2V
before connection. If batteries do exceed 0.2V difference then all batteries will
require a full charge so they are an equal voltage.
3. Each set of the battery external cables should have the same wire diameter and
length. This keeps the current flow of each battery consistent during operation.
4. When 2~8 batteries are connected in parallel, the charge-discharge current shall
not exceed 0.5C of the total bank capacity.


The maximum number of series connections is limited to 2 pcs - 24V.
2. Each battery should have the same capacity and the same voltage. Otherwise it will
affect subsequent use
3. Ensure that the voltage difference between the batteries should not exceed 0.2V
before connection. If batteries do exceed 0.2V difference then all batteries will
require a full charge so they are an equal voltage.
4. Connect all batteries in parallel (considering point 3 above) for 12-24 hours so that
batteries are equalized before connecting in series
5. If one battery goes into protective mode, the whole system will shut down


One other interesting note from the manual;
Parallel - Before wiring the battery, make sure all batteries are turned off.
Then press any batterys Power button and the other batteries will turn on automatically.

Series - Before wiring the battery, make sure all batteries are turned off. Follow the steps
shown below for wiring. Then press any batterys Power button one by one.


So auto turn on for parallel but not series. Also point 4. in the series connection suggests connecting them in parallel before changing to a series connection.
 
I'll be connecting 2 in parallel in my new van for 200Ah. I'll charge both fully from the same charger individually. Then, after resting them for a few hours, check the voltage of each before hooking up and turning on.

I'm not sure if the Rover can be parallel connected as there nothing in their manual other than "Do not operate at a voltage over its capacity".

Another difference is the Pylontech has a operating temp range of -20 to +50C, the Rover 0 to +40C.
 
G'Day RR

Glad to hear we are not the only 1s getting into portable power

Ridge Runner said:
I just bought 2 of those SoGen Packs worth $2600.00 a piece giving a total of 3600Wh, One for me and One for my Brother,

I have never heard of these before, do you have a link so I can check them out, it is so very hard getting BATs. etc. ATM

Ridge Runner said:
I have changed all my Appliance to to Low wattage Items, My last power Bill for 3 months was $37.20c

Good 1, I have these LEDs all over the house so our Elec. Bill has been very low for years. So low the Boss wont let me install BAT Wall / Inv. etc. we already had panels on the house when we moved to Bar. I have a couple of panels on the 4x4 mainly for R&D.

1642871776_ozleds_-_free_led.jpg


Plus I use them when I go out camping etc.

They are dimmable and provide free light if you dim he down, the boss gives them away on GT ( She's Mad ) have you seen these ?
 
saau said:
G'Day RR

Glad to hear we are not the only 1s getting into portable power

Ridge Runner said:
I just bought 2 of those SoGen Packs worth $2600.00 a piece giving a total of 3600Wh, One for me and One for my Brother,

I have never heard of these before, do you have a link so I can check them out, it is so very hard getting BATs. etc. ATM

Ridge Runner said:
I have changed all my Appliance to to Low wattage Items, My last power Bill for 3 months was $37.20c

Good 1, I have these LEDs all over the house so our Elec. Bill has been very low for years. So low the Boss wont let me install BAT Wall / Inv. etc. we already had panels on the house when we moved to Bar. I have a couple of panels on the 4x4 mainly for R&D.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/14551/1642871776_ozleds_-_free_led.jpg

Plus I use them when I go out camping etc.

They are dimmable and provide free light if you dim he down, the boss gives them away on GT ( She's Mad ) have you seen these ?

I will start another thread on Low Power Appliances so it won't get lost in these pages or detour this thread Ok,
 
G'Day RR

Gr8 idea, I have also been R&ding a torch that will last 10K years !!!

I have hacked the circuit of my fav. torches, ( I have been collecting torches for 20 years ) to use Tesla 2170 Model X cells, not 3xAAA.

The marketing guru ( Min. 4 Fin. ) realised that I had been using 1 of these torches for 3 years without charging and the cycle count is min. 2K.

The BAT should last 5 years between charges so that is 5 x 2K = 10,000 years :)

Stuff like this should be in a sep. post so others can doco. their fav. tech.

Then we are all going to learn from the group exp.

Thxs
 
We don't have solar on the new house (at our age, not worth the expense). All the internal lights are LED downlight, we run a 55" OLED TV, a 7.2kW main aircon and a 2.2kW bedroom. Plus the usual kettle, laptops, washer etc and our power bill is around $340 per qtr. (about a 180 quid in your funny money RR, lol) Wife has a med cond so the aircons run more often than I would use them.

We were with one provider in the old house, the last bill was over $740 as they charged $0.399/kWh. We moved to a supplier that charges just under $0.30 and pay fortnightly in advance. At the end of the qtr, they adjust the bill, in that, if I over pay, I get a lower or no bill the next fortnight and vice versa if I underpay.

It's great as no huge bill every 3 months and almost half what we were paying.
 
To all forum members :cool:

Ridge Runner said:
I will start another thread on Low Power Appliances

All I can admit to is that it is really 'Hard to get good help' these C19 days

G'Day RR

I hate to be the bearer of bad news - Y O U A R E S A C K E D

Site Admin

Could you pls. get security to show RR the door :argh: then create a new thread ?

TIA
 
saau said:
To all forum members :cool:

Ridge Runner said:
I will start another thread on Low Power Appliances

All I can admit to is that it is really 'Hard to get good help' these C19 days

G'Day RR

I hate to be the bearer of bad news - Y O U A R E S A C K E D

Site Admin

Could you pls. get security to show RR the door :argh: then create a new thread ?

TIA

I'm not feeling the Love Here, :( Does somebody need a Hug :( :8
 

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